The resort is deceiving. It offers holidaymakers a beautiful setting and beautiful craftmanship with their restaurant and bungalows structures etc., but unfortunately, that’s where it ends. We had horrible service, terrible food, and 100% unwelcoming to foreigners. I have never hated a vacation as much as I did this one, and I couldn’t wait to leave. One month on, and I am still unable to find something good about it.
It’s that time of the year again. We were in serious need of another short getaway. The destination of choice was Mai Chau Hideaway, situated on the banks of the Hoa Binh Reservoir.
We had an early start Monday morning waiting for our driver Mr Phong to transport us to Mai Chau, which was only 135km Southwest of Hanoi. As in all road trips in Vietnam, they seem to take much longer due to slower speed limits and not many highways allowing you to travel at high speed. The average travel was 60km/hour or less hence the 3.5 hour-long drive. We snaked along the scenic Thung Khe Pass through villages, rice paddies and sugar cane fields. Mr Phong kindly stopped a few times to look at the spectacular view of the reservoir, which is comparable to a land version of Ha Long Bay.
The Rascals were happy when we finally arrived at Mai Chau Hideaway. What a sight as we left the car, stretched our legs and caught a glimpse of the spectacular view from our balconyβa true hideaway, far away from the busy streets of Hanoi.
Mai Chau is a small town surrounded by by many ethnic villages. Set in a valley between tall mountains, tropical forests and lush green rice paddies. I was hoping to see the beautiful, Plum, and Peach flowers which are suppose to be visible during the months of March, April. I was hoping to find them over the next few days.
The birds singing outside and the gentle chugs from fishing boats as the fishermen tend their traps and set out nets was the perfect wake up call to start our day. But first, a quick stop for breakfast. There was something for everyone and no one went hungry, not the normal buffet spreads we have come to enjoy. The kids tucked into bacon and eggs and hubby enjoyed a hearty chicken Pho whilst taking in the lake view.
I arranged a private guide to take us round the local area and sights. Unfortunately, it didn’t happen due to miscommunication between bookings and reception department. Whatever it was we were not going to let this ruin our holiday. The hotel scrambled and arranged a taxi to shuttle us round and back to the hotel.
First stop Go Lao Waterfall, only a 6km drive from Mai Chau Hideaway – a beautiful hidden gem, not many visitors know about it. The Rascals were relieved to hear they would only had to tackle 40 steep steps to reach the base of the falls. Well, someone couldn’t count. Of course, if I give the kids a number, they have to count it out. By the time they reached 40, they were only at the halfway point. I can now confirm if you want to visit the falls, you will only have to conquer approximately 80 steeps steps down to the base of the falls. The water flows down to Hoa Binh lake and was flowing relatively well considering its not rain season. I would recommend a visit. Pay for parking and head down to the falls. I only wish people would take their litter with them. Then it would be a pristine sight.
Our taxi driver patiently waited for me to take my pictures before heading to our next stop Lac Village and Pom Coong Village. He dropped us off at the entrance and agreed on a time to meet and head back to the hotel. It was a pity we didn’t have an English speaking guide to show the Rascals around, to understand the villages way of life. It would have been insightful to watch the villages weave, make their tools and other handcrafted items, as well as explore the history behind their beautiful wooden houses built on stilts, continuing traditions as they did centuries ago. The villages live upstairs and work below. You can opt to walk, cycle or, better option on a hot day, jump into a golf buggy to ferry you around. You can take in the scenery as you pass all the rice paddies and mountains, watching the farmers hard at work. It’s a tranquil area as you take it all in #simplewayoflife.
After a refreshing drink, the Rascals were ready to head back to the hotel. Their tummies empty, and they couldn’t wait to sit down on the balcony for a light picnic lunch and delicious plums for dessert. The hotel kindly offered a daily plum basket which was a tasty treat.
Tummies filled and rested it was time to dive into the infinity pool to cool off. Late afternoon we headed down to the lake for a spot of fishing. Unfortunately the only thing we caught was flip flops caked in mud. Regardless it was a perfect way to end a day.
Every evening we went out to the Bamboo Restaurant for all our evening meals and breakfast. The view from their terrace is amazing.
Another early morning wake up. We headed down to the lake and boarded a metal tug, which slowly and noisily chugged along the lake. We passed some floating fish farms, loads of lime stone cliffs and islets. Enjoying a magnificent water view.
The rest of the day was as chilled as the morning. We enjoyed another picnic lunch with a view, a long afternoon swim, stone balancing and a spot of fishing on the rocky side of the resort away from the mud.
Mai Chau Hideaway offers every guest a peaceful spot to unwind. It is secluded relatively far from the city and towns, forcing you to slow down and take in the beautiful views, kick back on your balcony, watching the fishermen, boats, and birds pass by.
If you are looking for a weekend getaway from the city, I think we have just found a hidden gem. Ba Vi National park is only 60km drive from Hanoi.
Our family found comfortable accommodation using “Bookings.com” and checked into the self-catering Ba Vi Rose Villas for a short getaway. The rascals we’re extra excited because their fur babies could join as it’s a pet-friendly venue. This perfect little two-bedroom self-catering pad is ideal for the family and includes aircon, fans, free wifi, fridge/freezer, few glasses, bowls, spoons and chopsticks. There was a small garden with a patio, and we hired a bbq for our stayβthe only thing missing was the kitchen sink. I did see a tap in the yard with a concrete slab, guess that’s where I was going to wash the dishes for our stay.
We had to be a bit clever with our packing being it’s self-catering, but as we don’t have a car to cart all the bits and bobs one would need, like food/drink, plates, utensils, fur baby must-haves and clothes and fishing gear, we had to be practical and find a way to fit our stuff into a taxi. Don’t worry, as South Africa saying “Boer maak a plan”. I filled my large roller bag with all food /drink, utensils and plates, had a tog bag for clothes, and carry a bag filled with water and fishing gear. I surprised myself at how small I managed to pack, compared to my regular South African getaways where the boot could hardly close.
Once we settled in and unpacked, everyone was dying for a swim. The pool was cool and refreshing, offering some fantastic views and “selfie opportunities” if you fancy a selfie.
The only thing left to do was find the perfect fishing spot before the sunset. I must be honest and admit, we have had zero luck in catching fish in Vietnam. We have landed some beauties around South Africa but two years here and we have not seen one. Everyone was determined to hook and land a fish and end our dry spell. Hallelujah we finally caught one, regardless of how small it was, it was a fish, and the kids were ecstatic. The little fish was released and will live another day.
All the fishing done, everyone was hungry, especially knowing we would finally be having our very 1st braai “BBQ” in Vietnam. It’s been almost two years since our last South African Braai. I was lucky to find some delicious boerewors and steak. I also made an improvised version of “Woolworths” sweet chilli skewers, garlic bread and carrot salad. Finishing the meal off with toasted marshmallows and ready for bed.
Ba Vi Rose Villas organise a driver to take us round “Ba Vi National Park” he picked us up bright and early and we headed out to the forest. 1st stop The Cactus Garden, oh my, what a disappointment! I bet it looked beautiful when the dome first opened. Aiden thought it was very spooky and run-down. Just needed some dinosaurs and it would look like an authentic Jurassic World. Thankfully the view over the dam made the uphill walk in the scorching sun worthwhile.
The next stop, visiting several French ruins from the 19th century and starting at the French Summer Camp where we saw two derelict structures off the path. It’s good to explore but doesn’t come close to the Old Church. Wow, a must stop and explore every inch of the church covered in green moss, adding to the drama and offering epic photo opportunities. Our driver was very kind and drove us up to the Church, it is a steep road to climb, and we were saving our energy to explore a waterfall. We didn’t make it to the French Military Zone.
It didn’t feel right going into the national park without a proper forest walk and visiting a waterfall. Of course, everyone moaned, it’s too hot, too many stairs, why do we have to walk? No More, can we turn around! It wasn’t a long walk, only 4km round trip. The walk was relatively easy, other than the extreme heat and all the ups and downs, but anyone can manage it, no matter your fitness level. Due to an unseasonably dry spell, the waterfall was not as impressive as it could have been. We were relieved to know that there was an open Kiosk selling refreshments at the parking lot. You can grab some refreshments from the kiosk before or after your walk to cool off and take a minute to catch your breath. All in all its a beautiful forest and glad we explored a small portion of it.
Beautiful forestSlow flowing waterfallWell maintained footpath to the waterfall
Our family thoroughly enjoyed the time away from the city, spending quality time together, making memories. We are blessed to have the opportunity to explore a small portion of what the world has to offer.
Our recent adventure took us to the beautiful Ninh Binh. It’s a picturesque town only 90km from Hanoi City about 1.5 hours drive. The perfect weekend getaway from all the cities hustle and bustle.
Our 1st stop was the charming rustic Trang An Valley Bungalows. Trang An Valley Bungalows is situated close to many attractions including Trang An Eco Complex, Mua Cave, Thai Vi Temple and much more. The traditionally styled bungalows have a fantastic limestone rock-face backdrop. The backdrop continues inside as a unique, quirky bathroom wall. The accommodation was clean and tidy with aircon and free wifi. We had time to relax by the pool and had a choice of one of their deckings overlooking the pond, where the children fed the duck, and the boys were hoping to catch a fish or two. The onsite restaurant bar was open all day, offering refreshments and a variety of Vietnamese dishes to sample. The children loved the fried pork and rice.
After settling in and cooling off in the pool, we ventured out to the Trang An Eco Complex for a 2-hour boat trip. We had a choice of three routes depending on the route length, amount of caves and temples we wanted to visit. We finally opted for route two; venturing through four caves, three temples and exploring King Kong Film set, my son’s favourite movie. He was delighted to see the boat, the handprint and the villagers. Our petit boat tour guide spoke very little English, even with the language barrier she kept a smile on her face all the way around, regardless of how hot it was, she kept going. Thankfully there were other ores on hand, and we all chipped in and helped paddle through the crystal clear water as we admired the spectacular beauty of the limestone cliffs and dark caves we rowed through. Trang An Eco Complex was my favourite; however, it was also the busiest and most expensive of the three rivers we explored in and around Ninh Binh.
Next attraction to conquer was Hang Mua meaning the dancing cave. Don’t miss out on the well-known attraction. To reach the top, you must tackle over 500 uneven, steep steps, but once you submit, you will be in awe of the beautiful panoramic view of the Tam Coc river and rice paddies. Best visited in April or May when the rice paddies change to golden yellow colour. Remember to explore the 3rd largest cave at the foot of the steps; it’s dating over 300 000 years old. Our visit was worthwhile but exhausting.
We checked out of Trang An Valley Bungalos and moved over to Emeralda Resort on the outskirts of Ninh Bihn situated less than a kilometer from Van Long Nature Reserve.
We spent the day relaxing and chilling at the pool bar while the children splashed around in the outdoor and indoor swimming pools.
The large resorts accommodation was clean and spacious with fans, air-con, free wifi, minibar and room service. After a restfully night in a super comfy bed, we were ready to fill up on a massive buffet breakfast from Continental, Full English to Asian Style, something for everyone, even found something for my picky eater. They have an Γ la carte lunch and dinner menu at their restaurants, poolside bar for cocktails and snacks and a wine bar. There is plenty of activities to keep you busy at the resort. Pamper yourself to a Spa treatment, try your hand at fishing using traditional bamboo sticks, sink a few putts around the mini-golf course or cycle to Van Long Nature Reserve.
We had our first snag, trying to find a taxi or transport to our next activity. Of course, a motorbike would be convenient, but with children, the motorbike is not an option for our family. Yes, many parents take children of all ages confidently on a motorbike without an issue, I just don’t feel safe doing it, and therefore rely on a taxi, grab or private cars. The hotel did offer transfers at an astronomical rate, and they were unwilling to call a local taxi. We had to scramble and source one ourselves. The language barrier made it tricky, what we could have done if Grab was available in the area. Anyway, an hour later, taxi sourced we were finally on the road heading to Tam Cα»c-BΓch Δα»ng.
On arrival, we looked for the ticket kiosk, selected a life jacket and waited for the dock guard to direct us to our boats. Boys vs girls the race was on! The Tam Coc boat tour guides rowed us along a tranquil stretch of water, meandering through rice paddies and cliffs. One unique feature of the guides, is that the guides paddle with their feet. It is incredible to watch their skill and co-ordination. Unfortunately, they didn’t offer extra paddles, and we couldn’t help them row.
Photographer rowing with her feet while taking photos. Each boat has a designated photographer taking pictures; they haggle you to pay for the prints once your tour has ended.
The weather was hot, muggy and overcast not best conditions to take pictures. On the way back, the clouds were rumbling, and we were expecting a good soaking. Luckily it held off till we reached land and made the return journey cooler and more bearable.
We saw some birds, loads of Kingfishers, not close enough for a photo but good to see them diving to catch their breakfast. I was lucky enough to catch sight of a small snake swimming, but as I was about to take a picture, a boat vendor scared it off.
On our final day, we hired tandem bicycles and cycles out to Van Long Wetland Nature Reserve. It’s a short cycle from Emeralda Resort. Regardless of the short distance, we were sweating by the time we arrived. I think it was the hottest day of our trip, no clouds in sight. Yes! Another waterway and boat tour. Can’t get enough of the water systems and all the beautiful limestone peaks covered in green foliage, and crystal clear waters. The children cooled off by dipping their hats in the water.
Van Long was the quietest and cheapest boat tour route in the area. Not many tourists know about it. Hindsight we should have gone in the late afternoon, we were told it’s teeming with birdlife after 4 pm. Oh well, another reason to return, I guess. The boat tour was an incredible way to end our getaway.
My sweet little Vietnamese neighbour buzzed my doorbell without stopping early this morning. Thankfully I had finished my bath and dressed, but my hair was a different story. Anyway, the reason for today’s visit was to ask for help in threading two needles, she needs glasses but doesn’t have. I obliged! She felt the need to reward my efforts and dragged me back to her apartment, where she rummaged through her contents for a gift.
Wait for it, wait for it………..ππππ±π±π±π±π±π±π±
Yes, a few fish heads with hand sign instructions on how to make it, and sauces to use etc. I was bewildered and left, knowing I couldn’t reject her gift.
Five minutes later, she returned, making sure I had ingredients, and where I must cook it.
Bless her kind soul, but each time my doorbell rings, (she has a distinct manner she rings a bell and you know it’s her), I feel panicked as to what weird and exotic treats she has installed for me.
She keeps life interesting.
Today’s gift is by far my least favourite. The rascals agree the live prawn’s launching themselves out of the pot, crying for freedom was a close 2nd place if we had a beach closeby the kids would have set them free. The children refused to harm the helpless prawns which I had to regift quickly to someone less hypocritical, than me. I mean I’m happy to cook prawns as long as I don’t have to be part of their deathπ
Delicious Vietnamese vegetable spring rollSpring Roll dipping sauceBΓ‘nh Δa with nuts and seeds. It’s like a oversized crispy cracker. It’s normal served in the middle of a table and friends break pieces off as they choose washing it down with a good beer. Note the battery for size reference Live prawns after recapturing them and regifting to a friend
We have reached that time of year again, keeping up with traditions and creature comfort of familiarity even if we are far away from home. Yes, it’s August, but a Christmas cake must be made and nurtured over the months with a good coating of brandy every few weeks.
It wasn’t easy finding the ingredients in Vietnam to create my mums Christmas cake that we are accustomed to, and with border closure, I was unable to source them from travelling friends.
Even with the adjustments, it looks promising, and the house smells of home. We will have a long wait till 25th December to see how it tastesπ
Finished product 16.12.2020 The Christmas cake did not disappoint, the decadent brandied fruit-filled cake moist and tasty with every bite a definite crowd-pleaser and worth the wait.