Vietnamese Tết Lunar New Year

I thought I would share my understanding of the Vietnamese Tết Lunar New Year from when we lived in Hanoi.

This year, 2023, Vietnam will be celebrating the year of the Cat. Even though China celebrates the new year on the same day, they have different traditions, and, in some years, the zodiac animals may differ. This year they will honor the year of the Rabbit.

The weeks leading up to Tết is an exceedingly busy time for the families as they prepare for the big day. But, the last week of the year, the excitement levels kick into another gear. On the 23rd of the 12th month of the lunar calendar, I witnessed countless people carrying clear plastic bags packed full of paper gifts, leaving their homes, and heading to the communal furnace outside each apartment block and burning it up. Why?

I asked my friend, and he told me his version of the Vietnamese festivities of bringing in the new lunar new year, also known as Tết Nguyên Đán. Tết traditionally starts building up on 23/12/2022 of the lunar calendar, precisely one week before the Lunar New Year’s Eve.

The week starts with families buying three goldfish (golden carp), usually found on every street corner or the back of motorbikes, as vendors drive along the streets selling to passersby needing fish to offer. They also head to their local paper merchant to purchase unique paper gifts.
We walked along the famous Hang Ma Street in Hanoi’s Old Quarter. Where the locals buy anything from paper cell phones to shoes, designer handbags to iPads, and even washing machines, cars, houses, motorbikes, baths, and money, anything you can imagine but in the paper. Whatever they choose to buy, it’s all to be used as an offering to the Kitchen King known as Ong Tao. The residents burn incense in their homes, say prayers, and then leave offerings on their in-house altar before heading out with their paper gifts to burn their offerings in their nearest furnace in the hopes they will have good luck and prosperity in the new year. After they have burnt their offering, they take their three fish and release them into the nearest pond or river for the Kitchen God.

The story I have been told is that the Kitchen God goes to heaven riding on the carp, but not an ordinary carp, a special golden carp that can turn into a dragon. He goes to heaven to discuss each family’s situation with the Jade Emperor – The King of Heaven.

I had always wondered why I saw an enormous number of goldfish swimming around the lakes and rivers. It always seemed odd seeing the pop of orange as I would expect to see the common dull camouflaged version. Now I know why.

Vietnamese families prepare their houses for the coming new year by spring cleaning and polishing silver removing all the bad luck from the current year and being ready for a fresh start. They decorate their homes with kumquat trees, peach blossoms, chrysanthemums, and red gladiolas. They hold family meetings to resolve family feuds, ensuring the new year starts peacefully.

The main New Year’s Eve celebration will take place this year on Saturday, 21.01.2023. The families will attend festivals and watch the lion dancers perform. The lion symbolizes the removal of negative energies, as the lion is believed to bring good luck, health, and prosperity. They gift children with beautifully decorated envelopes filled with money. It’s called Lucky money, “lì-xì,” meaning gifts for good luck in the coming year. The money is given on the eve of the new year and can only be opened on New Year’s day. Then they celebrate as a family and watch fireworks displays.

Everything shuts down in the city for more than a week. It’s odd to see the bustling city become a ghost town with limited shops and restaurants open. After our first year, I learned I needed to stock up our fridge and cupboards with at least two weeks of food and drinking water to ensure we were not left with only rice to eat. It takes suppliers time to get back to work and restock the shops and return to normal.

Signing off Chúc Mừng Năm Mới on the 22 January 2023 ( Happy New Year’s Day)

#Vietnam – Mai Chau

It’s that time of the year again. We were in serious need of another short getaway. The destination of choice was Mai Chau Hideaway, situated on the banks of the Hoa Binh Reservoir.

We had an early start Monday morning waiting for our driver Mr Phong to transport us to Mai Chau, which was only 135km Southwest of Hanoi. As in all road trips in Vietnam, they seem to take much longer due to slower speed limits and not many highways allowing you to travel at high speed. The average travel was 60km/hour or less hence the 3.5 hour-long drive. We snaked along the scenic Thung Khe Pass through villages, rice paddies and sugar cane fields. Mr Phong kindly stopped a few times to look at the spectacular view of the reservoir, which is comparable to a land version of Ha Long Bay.

The Rascals were happy when we finally arrived at Mai Chau Hideaway. What a sight as we left the car, stretched our legs and caught a glimpse of the spectacular view from our balcony—a true hideaway, far away from the busy streets of Hanoi.

Mai Chau is a small town surrounded by by many ethnic villages. Set in a valley between tall mountains, tropical forests and lush green rice paddies. I was hoping to see the beautiful, Plum, and Peach flowers which are suppose to be visible during the months of March, April. I was hoping to find them over the next few days.

The birds singing outside and the gentle chugs from fishing boats as the fishermen tend their traps and set out nets was the perfect wake up call to start our day. But first, a quick stop for breakfast. There was something for everyone and no one went hungry, not the normal buffet spreads we have come to enjoy. The kids tucked into bacon and eggs and hubby enjoyed a hearty chicken Pho whilst taking in the lake view.

I arranged a private guide to take us round the local area and sights. Unfortunately, it didn’t happen due to miscommunication between bookings and reception department. Whatever it was we were not going to let this ruin our holiday. The hotel scrambled and arranged a taxi to shuttle us round and back to the hotel.

First stop Go Lao Waterfall, only a 6km drive from Mai Chau Hideaway – a beautiful hidden gem, not many visitors know about it. The Rascals were relieved to hear they would only had to tackle 40 steep steps to reach the base of the falls. Well, someone couldn’t count. Of course, if I give the kids a number, they have to count it out. By the time they reached 40, they were only at the halfway point. I can now confirm if you want to visit the falls, you will only have to conquer approximately 80 steeps steps down to the base of the falls. The water flows down to Hoa Binh lake and was flowing relatively well considering its not rain season. I would recommend a visit. Pay for parking and head down to the falls. I only wish people would take their litter with them. Then it would be a pristine sight.

Our taxi driver patiently waited for me to take my pictures before heading to our next stop Lac Village and Pom Coong Village. He dropped us off at the entrance and agreed on a time to meet and head back to the hotel. It was a pity we didn’t have an English speaking guide to show the Rascals around, to understand the villages way of life. It would have been insightful to watch the villages weave, make their tools and other handcrafted items, as well as explore the history behind their beautiful wooden houses built on stilts, continuing traditions as they did centuries ago. The villages live upstairs and work below. You can opt to walk, cycle or, better option on a hot day, jump into a golf buggy to ferry you around. You can take in the scenery as you pass all the rice paddies and mountains, watching the farmers hard at work. It’s a tranquil area as you take it all in #simplewayoflife.

After a refreshing drink, the Rascals were ready to head back to the hotel. Their tummies empty, and they couldn’t wait to sit down on the balcony for a light picnic lunch and delicious plums for dessert. The hotel kindly offered a daily plum basket which was a tasty treat.

Tummies filled and rested it was time to dive into the infinity pool to cool off. Late afternoon we headed down to the lake for a spot of fishing. Unfortunately the only thing we caught was flip flops caked in mud. Regardless it was a perfect way to end a day.

Every evening we went out to the Bamboo Restaurant for all our evening meals and breakfast. The view from their terrace is amazing.

Another early morning wake up. We headed down to the lake and boarded a metal tug, which slowly and noisily chugged along the lake. We passed some floating fish farms, loads of lime stone cliffs and islets. Enjoying a magnificent water view.

The rest of the day was as chilled as the morning. We enjoyed another picnic lunch with a view, a long afternoon swim, stone balancing and a spot of fishing on the rocky side of the resort away from the mud.

Mai Chau Hideaway offers every guest a peaceful spot to unwind. It is secluded relatively far from the city and towns, forcing you to slow down and take in the beautiful views, kick back on your balcony, watching the fishermen, boats, and birds pass by.

#Vietnam – Mid-Autumn Festival Tết Trung Thu

Last week I watched as the country of Vietnam, celebrate the Mid Autumn or Moon Festival. Of course, it was on a much smaller scale due to COVID, but exciting none the less. This was my 2nd year experiencing the festival, and I wanted to share my understanding of the festivities as I know it. Please feel free to correct, share or add on any information on the festival that I have failed to mention.

The festival started in China, but Vietnam has added their twist of traditions, legends and folklore tales unique to their culture passed down through the generations. It was created for children and an important time for the parents to make up for the endless hours dedicated to bringing in the harvest as well as the extended period spent grafting in the fields. It was also a time to give thanks to the Earth God for a good crop as the full moon symbolises fullness and prosperity of life. They do this by placing the worshipping platform in the garden laid with fruits, snacks and mooncakes at 10 pm, friends and family gather together and enjoy the feast and giving thanks.

During the lead up to the festival, you can expect to encounter the ‘Moon Cake’ which are eaten and gifted to friends and family during this time. The cakes are traditionally filled with salted egg yolk and stuffed with bean or lotus seed paste and coved in a decorative dough. The moon cakes have evolved, and new exciting flavours are available in bakeries and shops to sample. I must say I enjoy the eye-catching pop-up shops leading up to the festival. They have a variety of beautiful designs, but most of all, the array of brightly coloured boxes in all different sizes available to purchase. I saw the most exquisite moon cake lantern box on Facebook; if I could find one, I would have bought it as a memento. It is unique and beautifully made; it even lights up! Check out the link, isn’t the lantern stunning?

The festival is not only about moon cakes, but it’s actually about the children and giving thanks to the earth god for a good harvest. As I walked around our local neighbourhood, many kindergartens were displaying their DIY funny face masks, paper lanterns and faces painted bamboo trays. They held concerts in the evenings, watch dragon dancers and then march down the street with them singing loudly and carrying colourful lanterns of all different shapes, sizes and colours.

A work colleague gifted my children with a funny mask, glowing bunny ears and silly glasses. My children also enjoyed a fun week making their DIY lanterns, painted bamboo plates and watched a dragon dance from our balcony.

Legend has it that many, many years ago a carp spirit came down and killed many children at night whilst their parents were working in the fields. It is for that reason the children carry lanterns to protect them from the carp spirit as he terrified of light.

Another fun week #makingmemories

#Christmas Cake – Baking Up a Storm

We have reached that time of year again, keeping up with traditions and creature comfort of familiarity even if we are far away from home. Yes, it’s August, but a Christmas cake must be made and nurtured over the months with a good coating of brandy every few weeks.

It wasn’t easy finding the ingredients in Vietnam to create my mums Christmas cake that we are accustomed to, and with border closure, I was unable to source them from travelling friends.

Even with the adjustments, it looks promising, and the house smells of home. We will have a long wait till 25th December to see how it tastes😒