#Vietnam – Serena Resort, Hoa Binh

The resort is deceiving.  It offers holidaymakers a beautiful setting and beautiful craftmanship with their restaurant and bungalows structures etc., but unfortunately, that’s where it ends.  We had horrible service, terrible food, and 100%  unwelcoming to foreigners.  I have never hated a vacation as much as I did this one, and I couldn’t wait to leave. One month on, and I am still unable to find something good about it.

#Vietnam – Đồng Đò lake

The 4th Lockdown in Vietnam seemed never-ending.   They started social distancing and restrictions on a few activities from the end of April. Unfortunately, it didn’t stop there.  The government placed more restrictions on the people as the numbers increased rapidly.  By Mid July, they had no other choice but to restrict everyone’s movement, no travel across municipal or provincial lines unless authorised to do so. 

Finally,  the government lifted restrictions on the 15th of October and granted free travel between green zones.  Relief at the idea we could escape, and I immediately took to google to find a getaway on the outskirts of Hanoi.   We had to Escape our bubble. We were becoming stir crazy looking at the same scenery day in day out. 

I found a quirky little retreat situated on the banks of Đồng Đò lake, a mere 1-hour drive from the city.  The well-appointed container home featured all the self-catering facilities with a bonus of a sandwich shop and bar situated on the roof terrace. Offering us all the amenities we would need to enjoy a peaceful getaway.

The weather was perfect, sunny, NO HUMIDITY with a cool breeze. It felt like the ideal South African weather I love and certainly miss, giving it the extra home-away-away-home feeling. A bit nostalgic, lazing next to the dam, enjoying the peace, tranquillity in a beautiful setting, chilling with the family.

Wherever we go, we always miss our country and people, so whenever we get the opportunity to light a braai, we pounce on it, rain or shine, we will braai! This holiday was no exception. Good meat, Salad and toasty garlic bread hit the spot! It was fantastic to hear the Little Rascals reminiscing and laughing about all our funny moments and adventures we have had, bonding around the fire, memorable moments we will always cherish together.

As much as the scenery and bonding were fabulous, our fishing was not. The giant finned slippery creatures still elude us in Vietnam. I believe the scale suckers know we are not Vietnamese and laugh at our lines, taunting us all the way. Regardless of the fishless fishing, everything was perfect, exactly what we needed.

If you are looking for a quirky, peaceful and relaxing getaway, you will love Gisy Lake House. The hosts are friendly and accommodating and offer a unique eco-friendly experience in a beautiful setting. Look them up when you need some fresh air and tranquillity.

360 degree view of the lake

#Vietnam – Mai Chau

It’s that time of the year again.  We were in serious need of another short getaway.  The destination of choice was Mai Chau Hideaway, situated on the banks of the Hoa Binh Reservoir.

We had an early start Monday morning waiting for our driver Mr Phong to transport us to Mai Chau, which was only 135km Southwest of Hanoi. As in all road trips in Vietnam, they seem to take much longer due to slower speed limits and not many highways allowing you to travel at high speed.  The average travel was 60km/hour or less hence the 3.5 hour-long drive. We snaked along the scenic Thung Khe Pass through villages, rice paddies and sugar cane fields. Mr Phong kindly stopped a few times to look at the spectacular view of the reservoir, which is comparable to a land version of Ha Long Bay.

The Rascals were happy when we finally arrived at Mai Chau Hideaway.  What a sight as we left the car, stretched our legs and caught a glimpse of the spectacular view from our balcony—a true hideaway, far away from the busy streets of Hanoi.

Mai Chau is a small town surrounded by by many ethnic villages.  Set in a valley between tall mountains, tropical forests and lush green rice paddies.  I was hoping to see the beautiful, Plum, and Peach flowers which are suppose to be visible during the months of March, April. I was hoping to find them over the next few days.

The birds singing outside and the gentle chugs from fishing boats as the fishermen tend their traps and set out nets was the perfect wake up call to start our day.  But first, a quick stop for breakfast. There was something for everyone and no one went hungry, not the normal buffet spreads we have come to enjoy.  The kids tucked into bacon and eggs and hubby enjoyed a hearty chicken Pho whilst taking in the lake view.

I arranged a private guide to take us round the local area and sights.  Unfortunately, it didn’t happen due to miscommunication between bookings  and reception department.  Whatever it was we were not going to let this ruin our holiday.  The hotel scrambled and arranged a taxi to shuttle us round and back to the hotel.

First stop Go Lao Waterfall, only a 6km drive from Mai Chau Hideaway – a beautiful hidden gem, not many visitors know about it.  The Rascals were relieved to hear they would only had to tackle 40 steep steps to reach the base of the falls. Well, someone couldn’t count.  Of course, if I give the kids a number, they have to count it out. By the time they reached 40, they were only at the halfway point.  I can now confirm if you want to visit the falls, you will only have to conquer approximately 80 steeps steps down to the base of the falls.   The water flows down to Hoa Binh lake and was flowing relatively well considering its not rain season. I would recommend a visit.  Pay for parking and head down to the falls.  I  only wish people would take their litter with them.  Then it would be a pristine sight.

Our taxi driver patiently waited for me to take my pictures before heading to our next stop Lac Village and Pom Coong Village. He dropped us off at the entrance and agreed on a time to meet and head back to the hotel.  It was a pity we didn’t have an English speaking guide to show the Rascals around, to understand the villages way of life.  It would have been insightful to watch the villages weave, make their tools and other handcrafted items, as well as explore the history behind their beautiful wooden houses built on stilts, continuing traditions as they did centuries ago. The villages live upstairs and work below.   You can opt to walk, cycle or, better option on a hot day, jump into a golf buggy to ferry you around. You can take in the scenery as you pass all the rice paddies and mountains, watching the farmers hard at work.  It’s a tranquil area as you take it all in #simplewayoflife.

After a refreshing drink, the Rascals were ready to head back to the hotel.  Their tummies empty, and they couldn’t wait to sit down on the balcony for a light picnic lunch and delicious plums for dessert.   The hotel kindly offered a daily plum basket which was a tasty treat.

Tummies filled and rested it was time to dive into the infinity pool to cool off.  Late afternoon we headed down to the lake for a spot of fishing.  Unfortunately the only thing we caught was flip flops caked in mud.  Regardless it was a perfect way to end a day.

Every evening we went out to the Bamboo Restaurant for all our evening meals and breakfast.    The view from their terrace is amazing. 

Another early morning wake up. We headed down to the lake and boarded a metal tug, which slowly and noisily chugged along the lake. We passed some floating fish farms, loads of lime stone cliffs and islets.  Enjoying a magnificent water view.

The rest of the day was as chilled as the morning.  We enjoyed another picnic lunch with a view, a long afternoon swim, stone balancing and a spot of fishing on the rocky side of the resort away from the mud.

Mai Chau Hideaway offers every guest a peaceful spot to unwind.  It is secluded relatively far from the city and towns, forcing you to slow down and take in the beautiful views, kick back on your balcony, watching the fishermen, boats, and birds pass by.

#Vietnam – Phu Quoc Island

Yes, we finally made it to Phu Quoc.  It is a beautiful Vietnamese Island found off the coast of Cambodia!  Last year, we booked our tickets to visit the Island at the end of July 2020.  It wasn’t meant to be! The 2nd Covid 19 outbreak hit Danang and stopped us in our tracks.  It happened the weekend before our flight, and as we watched numbers rapidly increase, we were concerned about possible flight cancellations and the probability of being stuck on the Island.  Not the worst place to be trapped, but with pets at home and hubby’s work, we eventually decided it wasn’t worth the risk.

We took forever umming and ahing wondering when it would be safe to rebook our flight and eventually agreed TET holiday would be perfect for another family getaway.  Of course, as fate has it, ten days before our flight, the 3rd Covid 19 outbreak occurred. No refund or flight vouchers an option. We were faced with losing another flight for our 2nd Phu Quoc trip. We decided to wait till the day before the flight to make the final decision.  We watched the Covid updates and numbers and eventually agreed if we don’t go now, we won’t try going again.  The numbers seem to be under control, and we decided to risk it.  Bags packed, we were ready for some much needed “Vitamin Sea”.

We had an early start! 4 am wake up was not fun, but worth it in the end.  Masks on and bottles of hand sanitiser we were ready.

Arriving at Noi Bai airport, to our surprise, it was ghostly quiet. With no queues, Bamboo airline staff ushered us to the check-in counter.  Thankfully I was prepared with our online health declaration forms completed, which meant we had a fast check-in.  The passport control and security counters were also desolate, and we breezed through.  The Rascals were super surprised as they remembered the long lines they had to endure last year TET when we headed off to Singapore.  We boarded the aeroplane and headed to our seats allocated behind everyone, with an entire row in front of us free and ten rows behind us empty, making social distancing possible for our entire journey.  The flight arrived in Phu Quoc 30 minutes early, and as we arrived at the baggage turnstiles, our luggage was ready waiting. The flight was by far the smoothest flight we have ever experienced from departure to landing, what a pleasure!

Hopping into a taxi, our driver spoke decent English, and as he drove us to the Radisson Blu Hotel, situated on the Northern part of the island, he pointed out all the places we should stop and visit over the next few days.  It was a wonderful surprise to have a taxi driver proud to show off the best parts of his home town.

On arrival at the Radisson Blu Hotel, we found the staff welcoming, kind and helpful.  The check-in was speedy and efficient whilst we quenched our thirst with a complimentary refreshing Ice Tea. The staff quickly arranged our key cards for early check-in.  A Guest relations staff member accompanied us straight to our connecting rooms. She was an absolute gem. She showed us around, making sure we had everything we needed.  I can confirm the hotel has everything any family could desire, from excellent food, accommodating staff, kids centre, pool, dining, clean beach and immaculate gardens and surrounds. The hotel offers complimentary bicycle and kayak hire to keep their guests entertained during their stay.

The rascals woke up early, eager to start the day with a mighty buffet breakfast.  The Radisson Blu Phu Quoc did not disappoint. They laid out a fantastic spread.  They had a fresh fruit juice bar,  honey counter, pate and continental selection including delightful baked treats, and chef on hand to prepare your freshly made eggs to perfection, catering to any taste bud, including my fussy little eater.

Everyone’s tummies full! We were ready to put in our steps and explore the Safari Park.  Vinpearl Safari was by far the best Zoo I have seen, and all the animal enclosures were clean, large and had significant enrichment to keep the animals content.  The Rascals loved feeding the giraffe and Asian elephants. It was their highlight of the day. They also loved watching the Gibbons swinging between branches and trees, but most of all, listening to their calls.  All in all, a perfect outing for the whole family.

We ended the day with a swim, cocktails and early dinner at the pool bar before heading onto the beach for a sundowner to take in the beautiful sunset.

The following morning, after another hearty breakfast, Viet Jeep was waiting at reception to whisk us away in an authentic 1969 American Jeep.  The jeeps were used in the Vietnam war and left behind after the war ended in 1975. Our driver and guide Nguyen Phi Dung, had arranged to take us around the northern part of the island.

1st stop was the bee farm, but unfortunately, they were closed due to the Lunar New Year holiday.  We continued to the next stop, the Pepper Farm, where they farm black, white and red peppercorns. I had never really thought about where pepper comes from and found the tour interesting.  The trees produce pepper all year round, and once the fruit is ready to harvest, it is picked and left to sun dry for three days. You can see in the picture below a fruit bunch with mostly green fruit and the odd red fruit.  The green fruit, once dried, turns black into black pepper and the red fruit changes to a darker red, making it the spiciest peppercorn. Did you know that white pepper is actually a black peppercorn without the outer skin, and it is the mildest pepper flavour of all three?  Once the peppers have dried, the farmers will separate and package them ready to sell.  The Island produces about 1100 tones of organically farmed pepper annually. I suggest making a pepper farm tour a must-do on anyone’s visit to the Island.

Our tastebuds warmed, we were eager to cool off.  The Rascals were ecstatic to find out our guide was taking them to Rach Vem Bai or  StarFish Beach as it’s commonly known.  The beach is on the northeastern side of the island.  It is popular with the tourist as it has an abundance of red starfish.  We had to walk quite far out into the Gulf to find starfish. I was not expecting to wade far from the beach, thankfully; the water was warm around 30°C, the ideal temperature for me to get my clothes wet.  The water was clear, and we saw schools of small fish, several hermit crabs, and loads of live sand dollars everywhere we looked.  Starfish beach should be on your bucket list if you love marine life.

It would be rude of me not making sure we explore a small section of the Phu Quoc National Park which makes up 50% of the island, comprising of tropical rain forests, waterfalls, coral reefs, wetlands and other parts of the surrounding natural landscape.  My motto is, if there is a forest, we must explore and look for interesting trees, bugs, spiders and fungus. Thankfully for Cailyn, There were no bugs or spiders on the trail, and she did not need to do her unique ‘bug dance’, which she performs every time a bug flies or crawls past. We did enjoy listening to the sound of monkeys and birds in the distance and finding some unique looking trees, and taking in the fresh air.

Nguyen Phi Dung ended our tour taking us to Mui Ganh Dau Beach, the closest point to Cambodia.  You just need a big hop, skip and a jump, and you may find yourself on the Asian continent.  It was just a lookout spot for us as the tiny beach covered by litter was not inviting —interesting fact: Phu Quoc belonged to Cambodia and was taken over by Vietnam about 100 years ago.

The following morning, Viet Jeep collected us from the hotel. We had planned to spend the morning fishing with some locals. The Rascals were happy to be cruising on the Jeep again but mostly looking forward to a fun day on the beach and fishing in the shallows. They loved helping the local fishermen set out a small net for them to catch some fish and also cast their rods from the shoreline.   Hubby was happy to be out on the rocks casting his line out deeper, hoping to catch the ‘BIG ONE’. Unfortunately, it wasn’t meant to be. He had a few bites but only managed to land a dinky toy’😉. The rascals were ecstatic with their haul, even if it was only four small fish, but they were beautiful. All the fish were released to enjoy freedom again and grow to maturity.

On arriving back at the hotel, we were treated to a traditional Lion Dance performance to celebrate TET Vietnamese Lunar New Year Eve. The lion dance symbolises the removal of negative energies, because the lion is a creature believed to bring good luck, health, and prosperity. It was so loud you can feel the drum vibrations running through the ground and up through your body.  It’s always wonderful for the Rascals to witness the local cultures and traditions, and it’s a good world schooling opportunity.  Happy Lunar New Year or  Chúc Mừng Năm Mới 2021  in Vietnamese

Sadly, our final day on Phu Quoc Island and our travel plans had been disrupted with an eight-hour flight delay.  The rascals were a bit upset as they missed their pets and were looking forward to returning after lunch to collect their beloved #furbabies. Still, it was a small blessing and gave us some extra time for a final swim in the pool and play on the beach, making funny sand art before checking out and exploring the Southern part of the Island.

We booked a private car through Viet Jeep to take us around the Island and drop us off at the airport.  1st stop Dinh Cau Rock or Cau fishing pagoda and lighthouse, where the fishermen believe Thien Hau (the goddess of the sea) will protect them while fishing in the open ocean. Dinh Cau Rock is close to the Duong Dong Fishing Harbour, where we saw many fishing and tour boats. This will the best place to hop onto a tour boat if you want to go Island hopping, snorkelling, fishing or scuba diving.

Our driver headed over to the Pearl Farm, unfortunately, the tour was closed being a public holiday, but the shop was open to glimpse some stunning pearls.  Pearls are graded according to surface quality, luster, and perfection of shape, roundness and symmetry.  We saw some dazzling pearls and products.  Hubby treated me to a beautiful pair of pearl earings, and we bought our daughter her first pearl bracelet.

At our next stop, the driver gave us a tour of Coconut Prison. He was an excellent guide and explained that the prison was the largest in South Vietnam. He explained what the prisoners had to endure during their imprisonment at the facility. Coconut prison, as you see it today, is a museum and memorial, built with fake prison quarters and mannequins detailing their story. This was not a fun visit but historically an essential stop for us. The Rascals said it was creepy, but it was good for them to see and understand how brutal the wars were. The Americans soldiers were in charge of this this prison, and they had some brutal methods of torture. Of course, we all know the brutality happened in all prisoners of war, no matter which country was in charge.

The surrounding perimeter fence was made up of at least ten layers of barb wire, making it impossible to escape. The prisoners, however, did not give up and dug tunnels under the prison with metal spoons. The tunnels were tiny and only men weighing less than 40kg could move through. They say only 21 men escaped. Most escapees were recaptured and tortured again and again.

Our final stop before heading to the airport was Sao Beach the “crown jewels of Phu Quoc. I believe it could be, but as it seems with most public beaches in Phu Quoc, they are filthy and unloved, piles of litter everywhere. A pitty as the sand was snow-white and the water was emerald blue with some cute Instagramable frames and swings submerged during high tide which looked fun. We sat at the beach bar to take in the last view and wasting time before our flight.

We had another memorable family vacation, finding something fun for each of us to enjoy. Phu Quoc will be remembered as we made lifetime memories for our Rascals to look back on when they are older. If you are thinking about visiting the Island, I believe you will have an enjoyable stay. There is enough to do for a few days to enjoy the sights, beaches and food, and plenty of time for much-needed R&R

#Vietnam – Hanoi

I have been racking my brain to find something positive about my time in Hanoi! I mean, this is a 1000-year-old bustling city filled with historic landmarks, Pagodas, Citadel and Markets, what’s not to love about it? For me, it’s the dirt and noise pollution that I struggle with and probably makes me one of the few foreigners that don’t enjoy the city!  The streets are chaotic, most of the time, you are unable to walk on the sidewalk safely due to all the scooters parked blocking the path along with numerous food vendors camped out on the pavements,  cooking over charcoal grills and massive pots.  The vendors serve street food to patrons sitting on tiny plastic stools, enjoying their meal outdoors in the heavy smog.  Hanoi is a complete sensory overload for me, sight, smell and sound.

Regardless that Hanoi is not my favourite place. Every trip to the city is an adventure in itself.  It still amazes me how many lanes can emerge from a 3 Lane road; You can’t even make out the individual lanes as hundreds of bikes squeeze in-between the cars, trucks and busses.  Complete organised mayhem! Everyone seems confident in what they are attempting to do, switching lanes, making a U-Turn into oncoming traffic whilst blocking the road behind. Everyone seems calm, with no visible road rage!  Tooting the car horn is a warning rather than an aggressive gesture.  We have driven with drivers who seem to have their hand always on the horn as they weave in and out of traffic, catching every gap where possible. The intersections without traffic lights are the best.  I could sit for hours just watching how they weave through the interception as everyone heads in different directions and miraculously makes it safely across. 

Just a thought, we should send our South African Minibus taxis drivers to Vietnam for a crash course before they can take on any passengers, they would be out of their league, they have nothing on the drivers here, ‘balls of steel’.

The streets are not for the faint-hearted, and when I think I have seen it all, I witness something next level that leaves my mouth hanging on the floor.   There are many streets with a sole purpose of stocking a specific line like The Paper street or correctly, named Hàng Mã street in Hanoi’s Old Quarter where you will find shops upon shops selling the seasons decorations or cardboard gifts like scooters,  mini houses, sofas, money, computers or cars etc. which the locals buy to burn on the anniversary of their loved one’s death, sending them anything they could need or desire, an offering to their ancestors. You can find a street just selling lights, or street selling sports gear or jackets, whatever you need you will find a street with many shops selling pretty much the same thing. 

This undated photo shows paper offerings sold in one of Hanoi’s markets. (PHOTO / VIET NAM NEWS)

Crossing a road was something we had to become accustomed to!  It is an adrenaline-rushing experience, you have to wait for a gap and don’t hesitate, whilst you bravely start walking into the traffic and have faith that the drivers will zig-zag around to avoid hitting you.  The key is once you start walking, don’t turn back, commit, don’t change speed or direction, giving drivers time to anticipate your move and avoid impact.  It works surprisingly well. If you are in the city on the weekends and don’t want to worry about busy streets, head over to the pedestrian streets around Hoan Kiem Lake. Thanks to the government, they close the roads around the lake, making it pleasant to stroll and enjoy the area, shops and restaurants without worrying about vehicles bumping into you.

Let me add I don’t hate Hanoi; it’s just doesn’t get me excited, unlike all the other beautiful parts of Vietnam that we have been fortunate to visit.  If we didn’t live on the city’s outskirts, I would skip entirely and spend my time in places like Sapa, Ha Long, Ba Vi, Ninh Binh, Da Nang, Hoi An.  Vietnam has so much to offer and so many beautiful places to explore, the locals are friendly, and I have never felt unwelcomed wherever we have travelled.

#Vietnam – Da Nang

On the 27th of October, 2019, we were ready for another adventure.  This time we were heading to the tourist capital of Vietnam.  Yes, you guessed it we jetted off on Bamboo air to explore the city of Da Nang. It’s a 2-hour flight from Noi Bai airport and the halfway point between Ho Chi Minh and Hanoi.  We hopped in a taxi to Meliá Da Nang Beach Resort. The friendly staff checked us in quickly and kindly upgraded our hotel room to one of the villas with an outdoor garden and a hop, skip and a jump away from the pool and beach.  It started raining, and the porter shuttled us quickly to our villa, where we had time to unpack, order room service before heading to see the famous dragon bridge display.

8.30 pm the taxi was waiting to take us to Da Nang Dragon Bridge, its the longest bridge in Vietnam. Still, more importantly, on weekends at 9 pm, it offers a dazzling display of lights and the intense heat as the dragon breaths out the fire, then cools down with water shooting out of its mouth. For the best view, I would suggest booking one of the boat trips and view the display on the river away from huge crowds that gather.

I have only good reviews of the hotel, and its amenities including buffet breakfast, pool bar, dinner and room service, the staff were always friendly, kind and helpful going beyond to ensure our stay was memorable.   The villa was spacious, with a large spa bath and outdoor shower, even the toilet was high-tech with seat warmer and jets from all angles, think you might need a PhD to operate 😉, the kids were highly amused to find a telephone next to the toilet. They were coming up with a different reason why one would require a phone whilst completing one’s private business🤣🤣.

Our first full day at the resort was a lazy day; the weather was perfect.  We started with the most important meal of the day, a buffet breakfast with a wide selection of fresh fruits, pastries, cold meats, bacon, sausages and egg prepared on the spot, there was Asian breakfast and sushi on offer a wide selection for any taste bud.  After breakfast, the children were desperate to try out all the pools and play on the beach.  Unfortunately, the red flag was up due to rip tides. Hence, we settled for a beach walk and morning swim before heading out to the beautiful UNESCO town of Hoi An,

Hoi An has become my new favourite spot. I loved wandering along the bustling narrow roads of the old town, popping into all their quirky shop’s selling silks, clothes, ornaments, dream catches and more. The streets colourfully decorated with endless lanterns strung across the road and dangling from windows and doors.  We walked for hours admiring all the sights and smells Hoi An had to offer. The sun had finally worn us out, hot and bothered armed with pork sausage toes we finally sat down for a sunset dinner, then jumped into a taxi back to the hotel. I wish we stayed till dark to see all the lanterns glowing. Hmmm, 🤔 I have just given myself a great excuse to return for another visit.

We woke up to a very dreary wet day, headed to breakfast in the hope the weather would magically change before the shuttle bus dropped us off at Ba Na Hills. I was ready to tick off one of my bucket list items, The Hands I mean The Golden Bridge. Ba Na Hills is a little French village about 450m above sea level and serviced by numerous cableway systems connecting gardens, bridge, town and pagodas together all found at different elevation levels over the mountain.

My missed bucket list photo opportunity, unfortunately, all I have is the google photo to imagine how spectacular the view could have been.

We knew we would be disappointed, but we could only hope the weather would change and had to give it a chance. Hey ho, looking back on the day of drenched rats we can laugh at the day’s events. I’m sure it would have been a magnificent adventure on a clear dry day—another good reason to return for a do-over.

Another wet day in Da Nang, we had a few hours to kill before our flight home, so we went exploring Marble Mountain. Marble mountain is a group of five hills named after the elements (metal, wood, water, fire and earth). ‘According to ancient folklore, a dragon emerged from the water on Non-Nuoc Beach and laid an egg. A thousand days and a thousand nights followed before the egg hatched, and out stepped a beautiful girl. The fragments of the shell were left on the beach and eventually grew into the five mystical Marble Mountains’. Thankfully we didn’t have to walk up all the steps and chose a one-way elevator ride to the top and explored the mountain as we strolled down. The gardens and carving were magnificent, and I do think it’s worth a visit. By the time we were almost down the rain started to fall, and we hurried to find a taxi to take us to Da Nangs 3D and Upside down museum.

The Museum was a perfect way to kill time and stay dry. The children thoroughly enjoyed the experience.

We had a memorable vacation in Da Nang, and could undoubtedly imagine ourselves living happily in the area. Da Nang is indeed cleaner than Hanoi, and thanks to the sea breeze, the pollution levels are much lower. Another bucket list destination not to miss if you are travelling to Vietnam.

#Vietnam – SaPa

Too excited to sleep, I stayed up wondering how our first travel adventure in Vietnam would be? Would everything be open as it was the TET holidays on the 5th of February 2019, or should I say Vietnamese Lunar New Year?  I managed to drift off for a few hours before my alarm woke me up.  A work colleague organised a private car to take us to the Green Bus pick up point in Hanoi. We booked a sleeping bus, whatever that meant, but it sounded good!

Well, it turns out our sleeping bus was more than I expected. When you enter the bus, the staff provided a plastic bag to store your shoes.  With your shoes off, the staff usher you to your seat.  The sleeping bus has three columns of double-decked beds.  The children were ecstatic, the first-time adventure on a sleeping bus, never seen one before.  If you have long legs, it does feel a bit cramped, especially trying to get into the top deck bed.  Thankfully we were all seated on the lower level and settled down for the 6-hour drive to SaPa.  I do like a road trip, taking in all the scenery as you drive by.  The road was a bit hairy after it left the motorway and the bus snaked around numerous tight bends sometimes taking up the entire road to make the turns.  But oh, wow! The scenery was breathtaking.

Finally, we made it.  The bus dropped us off at the entrance to the town.  Armed with Google maps, we pulled our suitcases along to find our accommodation.  Down tight streets and alleyways to reach, The View Hotel.   We arrived at our hotel, but it was closed?  I was a bit disappointed as it was not what I expected.  We dialled all the numbers on the door and waited for someone to arrive and check-in. Funny story, we were at the wrong hotel 🙈 this was Sapa View Hotel, but, we were booked at The View Hotel. Easy mistake. Poor staff, we disturbed them on their holiday 😂😂. Red-faced and embarrassed, we laughed and giggled as we made it down the last few streets and check-in at The View Hotel.

It was a fair walk, thankfully down-hill, but we were glad to settle into our room and drop our bags. The room was spotlessly clean, with everything we would need, including free wifi, aircon and mini bar fridge to store some food we brought for my fussy son.

Staff at The View Hotel organised a taxi to take us on a tour of the mountains and wait for us to explore before continuing onto the next place. It was surprisingly affordable considering he spent the whole afternoon driving and waiting for us.

First, stop Heaven’s gate a 15 km Drive along the Tram Ton Pass from the hotel. It’s like you are on top of the world with spectacular views of Hoang Lien Son mountain range situated about 2047m above sea level, the highest mountain pass in Vietnam.

We turned around and headed back towards SaPa stopping at Love Falls about a 2km Drive from Heavens Gate. To reach the falls, it’s an easy 30-minute walk on a well-paved path from the entrance.  It was great to see crystal clear water, unlike Hanoi dirty, polluted streams.

Our last stop Silver Waterfalls, you need your walking shoes to tackle the steps it goes up, up and up!
Silver Waterfalls is 3km from Love falls. Regardless of all the steep steps, it was well worth the view. Feeling rejuvenated back in a familiar happy place, surrounded by fresh air, mountains and waterfalls, reminded me of South Africa.

Weary, and tired the taxi driver dropped us off at the Skyview Bar and Restaurant, he must have thought these passengers need a drink! We enjoyed a cocktail on the deck overlooking the town and mountains before heading inside for a well-deserved meal.

Vietnamese Lunar New Year, we spent the day at Sun World Legend exploring Fansipans spiritual sites. From the town centre, we caught the funicular to the Cable car station. Then hopped on a cable car taking us over the mountains, valleys and rice paddies to the reach the top of Hoang Lien, Son mountain, commonly referred to as the “Roof of Indochina.”
From there we visited Bich Van Thien Tu and Thanh Van Dac Lo, admire the gardens and took in the breathtaking views.

The View Hotel Staff invited us to join them at midnight to bring in the Vietnamese Lunar New Year, the year of the Pig! I am glad we joined their festivities. It was an excellent way to learn a little more about their culture and traditions, as strangers sat and cheered each sip, whilst explaining how they usually have the whole family come together. It’s always a happy time; no family disagreements take place on the last day of the year. The head of the family conducts a 10-minute meeting at 11.50 pm to discuss the past year and hopes for the new year. They treated us to some of their traditional snacks and drinks, and the hotel owner gifted the children with ‘Lucky money’. The money placed in little decorative envelops and opened the next morning—an eye-opening and enjoyable night.

Last day in SaPa we ambled down the road to find Cat-Cat Village nestled at the bottom of valley only 3km from SaPa Town. I enjoying the walk downhill taking in the beautiful mountains, terraced rice paddies and watched the grazing water buffalo as we passed. Cat-Cat Cultural Village was formed in the 19th century. It was suppose to offers tourists a glimpse into the daily life of local ethnic people. Learn about their traditions, watch them weave beautiful fabrics and purchase some traditional souvenirs and handmade items. I think you need to do this with a guide and not alone as we had no information available. I would definitely revisit the village with a guide as it was fascinating and I would love an inside view into the villagers ways of life.

Blessed with unseasonably warm weather on our trip to SaPa; we had a wonderful time, a great start to our Vietnam adventures to come.

SaPa should be on the everyone bucket list when visiting Vietnam; you won’t be disappointed.

#Vietnam – Ba Vi

#travelingasia #vietnam🇻🇳

If you are looking for a weekend getaway from the city, I think we have just found a hidden gem.  Ba Vi National park is only 60km drive from Hanoi. 

Our family found comfortable accommodation using “Bookings.com” and checked into the self-catering Ba Vi Rose Villas for a short getaway. The rascals we’re extra excited because their fur babies could join as it’s a pet-friendly venue. This perfect little two-bedroom self-catering pad is ideal for the family and includes aircon, fans, free wifi, fridge/freezer, few glasses, bowls, spoons and chopsticks.  There was a small garden with a patio, and we hired a bbq for our stay—the only thing missing was the kitchen sink. I did see a tap in the yard with a concrete slab, guess that’s where I was going to wash the dishes for our stay.

We had to be a bit clever with our packing being it’s self-catering, but as we don’t have a car to cart all the bits and bobs one would need, like food/drink, plates, utensils, fur baby must-haves and clothes and fishing gear, we had to be practical and find a way to fit our stuff into a taxi.  Don’t worry, as South Africa saying “Boer maak a plan”.  I filled my large roller bag with all food /drink, utensils and plates, had a tog bag for clothes, and carry a bag filled with water and fishing gear. I surprised myself at how small I managed to pack, compared to my regular South African getaways where the boot could hardly close.   

Once we settled in and unpacked, everyone was dying for a swim.  The pool was cool and refreshing, offering some fantastic views and “selfie opportunities” if you fancy a selfie.

The only thing left to do was find the perfect fishing spot before the sunset.  I must be honest and admit, we have had zero luck in catching fish in Vietnam.  We have landed some beauties around South Africa but two years here and we have not seen one.  Everyone was determined to hook and land a fish and end our dry spell.  Hallelujah we finally caught one, regardless of how small it was, it was a fish, and the kids were ecstatic. The little fish was released and will live another day. 

All the fishing done, everyone was hungry, especially knowing we would finally be having our very 1st braai “BBQ” in Vietnam. It’s been almost two years since our last South African Braai. I was lucky to find some delicious boerewors and steak. I also made an improvised version of “Woolworths” sweet chilli skewers, garlic bread and carrot salad. Finishing the meal off with toasted marshmallows and ready for bed.

Ba Vi Rose Villas organise a driver to take us round “Ba Vi National Park” he picked us up bright and early and we headed out to the forest.  1st stop The  Cactus Garden, oh my, what a disappointment! I bet it looked beautiful when the dome first opened.   Aiden thought it was very spooky and run-down. Just needed some dinosaurs and it would look like an authentic Jurassic World.  Thankfully the view over the dam made the uphill walk in the scorching sun worthwhile.

The next stop, visiting several French ruins from the 19th century and starting at the French Summer Camp where we saw two derelict structures off the path.  It’s good to explore but doesn’t come close to the Old Church. Wow, a must stop and explore every inch of the church covered in green moss, adding to the drama and offering epic photo opportunities.  Our driver was very kind and drove us up to the Church,  it is a steep road to climb, and we were saving our energy to explore a waterfall.  We didn’t make it to the French Military Zone.

It didn’t feel right going into the national park without a proper forest walk and visiting a waterfall. Of course, everyone moaned, it’s too hot, too many stairs, why do we have to walk? No More, can we turn around!  It wasn’t a long walk, only 4km round trip. The walk was relatively easy, other than the extreme heat and all the ups and downs, but anyone can manage it, no matter your fitness level. Due to an unseasonably dry spell, the waterfall was not as impressive as it could have been. We were relieved to know that there was an open Kiosk selling refreshments at the parking lot. You can grab some refreshments from the kiosk before or after your walk to cool off and take a minute to catch your breath. All in all its a beautiful forest and glad we explored a small portion of it.

Beautiful forest
Slow flowing waterfall
Well maintained footpath to the waterfall

Our family thoroughly enjoyed the time away from the city, spending quality time together, making memories. We are blessed to have the opportunity to explore a small portion of what the world has to offer.

#Vietnam – Ninh Binh Getaway

#travelasia #ninhbinh #hanoi

Our recent adventure took us to the beautiful Ninh Binh.  It’s a picturesque town only 90km from Hanoi City about 1.5 hours drive.   The perfect weekend getaway from all the cities hustle and bustle. 

Our 1st stop was the charming rustic  Trang An Valley Bungalows. Trang An Valley Bungalows is situated close to many attractions including Trang An Eco Complex, Mua Cave, Thai Vi Temple and much more.  The traditionally styled bungalows have a fantastic limestone rock-face backdrop.  The backdrop continues inside as a unique, quirky bathroom wall.  The accommodation was clean and tidy with aircon and free wifi.   We had time to relax by the pool and had a choice of one of their deckings overlooking the pond, where the children fed the duck, and the boys were hoping to catch a fish or two.  The onsite restaurant bar was open all day, offering refreshments and a variety of Vietnamese dishes to sample.  The children loved the fried pork and rice.

After settling in and cooling off in the pool, we ventured out to the Trang An Eco Complex for a 2-hour boat trip. We had a choice of three routes depending on the route length,  amount of caves and temples we wanted to visit.  We finally opted for route two; venturing through four caves, three temples and exploring King Kong Film set, my son’s favourite movie.  He was delighted to see the boat, the handprint and the villagers.   Our petit boat tour guide spoke very little English, even with the language barrier she kept a smile on her face all the way around, regardless of how hot it was, she kept going. Thankfully there were other ores on hand, and we all chipped in and helped paddle through the crystal clear water as we admired the spectacular beauty of the limestone cliffs and dark caves we rowed through.  Trang An Eco Complex was my favourite; however, it was also the busiest and most expensive of the three rivers we explored in and around Ninh Binh.

Next attraction to conquer was Hang Mua meaning the dancing cave.  Don’t miss out on the well-known attraction.  To reach the top, you must tackle over 500 uneven, steep steps, but once you submit, you will be in awe of the beautiful panoramic view of the Tam Coc river and rice paddies. Best visited in April or May when the rice paddies change to golden yellow colour. Remember to explore the 3rd largest cave at the foot of the steps; it’s dating over 300 000 years old.   Our visit was worthwhile but exhausting.

We checked out of Trang An Valley Bungalos and moved over to Emeralda Resort on the outskirts of Ninh Bihn situated less than a kilometer from Van Long Nature Reserve.

We spent the day relaxing and chilling at the pool bar while the children splashed around in the outdoor and indoor swimming pools. 

The large resorts accommodation was clean and spacious with fans, air-con, free wifi, minibar and room service.  After a restfully night in a super comfy bed, we were ready to fill up on a massive buffet breakfast from Continental, Full English to Asian Style, something for everyone, even found something for my picky eater. They have an à la carte lunch and dinner menu at their restaurants, poolside bar for cocktails and snacks and a wine bar. There is plenty of activities to keep you busy at the resort. Pamper yourself to a Spa treatment, try your hand at fishing using traditional bamboo sticks, sink a few putts around the mini-golf course or cycle to Van Long Nature Reserve.  

We had our first snag, trying to find a taxi or transport to our next activity.    Of course, a motorbike would be convenient, but with children, the motorbike is not an option for our family.  Yes, many parents take children of all ages confidently on a motorbike without an issue, I just don’t feel safe doing it, and therefore rely on a taxi, grab or private cars.  The hotel did offer transfers at an astronomical rate, and they were unwilling to call a local taxi.  We had to scramble and source one ourselves.  The language barrier made it tricky, what we could have done if Grab was available in the area.  Anyway,  an hour later, taxi sourced we were finally on the road heading to Tam Cốc-Bích Động.

On arrival, we looked for the ticket kiosk, selected a life jacket and waited for the dock guard to direct us to our boats.  Boys vs girls the race was on!  The Tam Coc boat tour guides rowed us along a tranquil stretch of water, meandering through rice paddies and cliffs.   One unique feature of the guides, is that the guides paddle with their feet.  It is incredible to watch their skill and co-ordination.   Unfortunately, they didn’t offer extra paddles, and we couldn’t help them row.

Photographer rowing with her feet while taking photos.  Each boat has a designated photographer taking pictures; they haggle you to pay for the prints once your tour has ended. 

The weather was hot, muggy and overcast not best conditions to take pictures. On the way back, the clouds were rumbling, and we were expecting a good soaking.  Luckily it held off till we reached land and made the return journey cooler and more bearable.

We saw some birds, loads of Kingfishers, not close enough for a photo but good to see them diving to catch their breakfast.  I was lucky enough to catch sight of a small snake swimming, but as I was about to take a picture, a boat vendor scared it off.

On our final day, we hired tandem bicycles and cycles out to Van Long Wetland Nature Reserve. It’s a short cycle from Emeralda Resort.  Regardless of the short distance, we were sweating by the time we arrived.   I think it was the hottest day of our trip, no clouds in sight.  Yes! Another waterway and boat tour. Can’t get enough of the water systems and all the beautiful limestone peaks covered in green foliage, and crystal clear waters.  The children cooled off by dipping their hats in the water.

Van Long was the quietest and cheapest boat tour route in the area.   Not many tourists know about it.  Hindsight we should have gone in the late afternoon, we were told it’s teeming with birdlife after 4 pm.  Oh well, another reason to return, I guess.  The boat tour was an incredible way to end our getaway.


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