#Vietnam – SaPa

Too excited to sleep, I stayed up wondering how our first travel adventure in Vietnam would be? Would everything be open as it was the TET holidays on the 5th of February 2019, or should I say Vietnamese Lunar New Year?  I managed to drift off for a few hours before my alarm woke me up.  A work colleague organised a private car to take us to the Green Bus pick up point in Hanoi. We booked a sleeping bus, whatever that meant, but it sounded good!

Well, it turns out our sleeping bus was more than I expected. When you enter the bus, the staff provided a plastic bag to store your shoes.  With your shoes off, the staff usher you to your seat.  The sleeping bus has three columns of double-decked beds.  The children were ecstatic, the first-time adventure on a sleeping bus, never seen one before.  If you have long legs, it does feel a bit cramped, especially trying to get into the top deck bed.  Thankfully we were all seated on the lower level and settled down for the 6-hour drive to SaPa.  I do like a road trip, taking in all the scenery as you drive by.  The road was a bit hairy after it left the motorway and the bus snaked around numerous tight bends sometimes taking up the entire road to make the turns.  But oh, wow! The scenery was breathtaking.

Finally, we made it.  The bus dropped us off at the entrance to the town.  Armed with Google maps, we pulled our suitcases along to find our accommodation.  Down tight streets and alleyways to reach, The View Hotel.   We arrived at our hotel, but it was closed?  I was a bit disappointed as it was not what I expected.  We dialled all the numbers on the door and waited for someone to arrive and check-in. Funny story, we were at the wrong hotel 🙈 this was Sapa View Hotel, but, we were booked at The View Hotel. Easy mistake. Poor staff, we disturbed them on their holiday 😂😂. Red-faced and embarrassed, we laughed and giggled as we made it down the last few streets and check-in at The View Hotel.

It was a fair walk, thankfully down-hill, but we were glad to settle into our room and drop our bags. The room was spotlessly clean, with everything we would need, including free wifi, aircon and mini bar fridge to store some food we brought for my fussy son.

Staff at The View Hotel organised a taxi to take us on a tour of the mountains and wait for us to explore before continuing onto the next place. It was surprisingly affordable considering he spent the whole afternoon driving and waiting for us.

First, stop Heaven’s gate a 15 km Drive along the Tram Ton Pass from the hotel. It’s like you are on top of the world with spectacular views of Hoang Lien Son mountain range situated about 2047m above sea level, the highest mountain pass in Vietnam.

We turned around and headed back towards SaPa stopping at Love Falls about a 2km Drive from Heavens Gate. To reach the falls, it’s an easy 30-minute walk on a well-paved path from the entrance.  It was great to see crystal clear water, unlike Hanoi dirty, polluted streams.

Our last stop Silver Waterfalls, you need your walking shoes to tackle the steps it goes up, up and up!
Silver Waterfalls is 3km from Love falls. Regardless of all the steep steps, it was well worth the view. Feeling rejuvenated back in a familiar happy place, surrounded by fresh air, mountains and waterfalls, reminded me of South Africa.

Weary, and tired the taxi driver dropped us off at the Skyview Bar and Restaurant, he must have thought these passengers need a drink! We enjoyed a cocktail on the deck overlooking the town and mountains before heading inside for a well-deserved meal.

Vietnamese Lunar New Year, we spent the day at Sun World Legend exploring Fansipans spiritual sites. From the town centre, we caught the funicular to the Cable car station. Then hopped on a cable car taking us over the mountains, valleys and rice paddies to the reach the top of Hoang Lien, Son mountain, commonly referred to as the “Roof of Indochina.”
From there we visited Bich Van Thien Tu and Thanh Van Dac Lo, admire the gardens and took in the breathtaking views.

The View Hotel Staff invited us to join them at midnight to bring in the Vietnamese Lunar New Year, the year of the Pig! I am glad we joined their festivities. It was an excellent way to learn a little more about their culture and traditions, as strangers sat and cheered each sip, whilst explaining how they usually have the whole family come together. It’s always a happy time; no family disagreements take place on the last day of the year. The head of the family conducts a 10-minute meeting at 11.50 pm to discuss the past year and hopes for the new year. They treated us to some of their traditional snacks and drinks, and the hotel owner gifted the children with ‘Lucky money’. The money placed in little decorative envelops and opened the next morning—an eye-opening and enjoyable night.

Last day in SaPa we ambled down the road to find Cat-Cat Village nestled at the bottom of valley only 3km from SaPa Town. I enjoying the walk downhill taking in the beautiful mountains, terraced rice paddies and watched the grazing water buffalo as we passed. Cat-Cat Cultural Village was formed in the 19th century. It was suppose to offers tourists a glimpse into the daily life of local ethnic people. Learn about their traditions, watch them weave beautiful fabrics and purchase some traditional souvenirs and handmade items. I think you need to do this with a guide and not alone as we had no information available. I would definitely revisit the village with a guide as it was fascinating and I would love an inside view into the villagers ways of life.

Blessed with unseasonably warm weather on our trip to SaPa; we had a wonderful time, a great start to our Vietnam adventures to come.

SaPa should be on the everyone bucket list when visiting Vietnam; you won’t be disappointed.

#Vietnam – My Bubble

I always wondered how it would feel living in a ‘bubble’.  Now, I know!

Phase 2 Ecopark

When we relocated to Vietnam, my husband accepted a job in urbanisation called Ecopark. It’s situated on the outskirts of Hanoi and boasts 500 hectares of land. We were overjoyed to find comfortable and affordable accommodation, only 5 minutes walk to his work. Ecopark is continually growing, with daily developments of villas, semi-detached houses and apartments.

Ecopark has expanded tremendously over the years, and I am at a point whereby I have no reason to leave the urbanisation because I have access to most items I require daily. Of course, we go out, but only to explore somewhere new and exciting.

There are banks, ATMs, hospital, University, vet, schools, themed old town, cinema, pools, clubhouses, gyms, playgrounds, golf facilities, parks and recreational gardens along with a variety of shops, restaurants and much more all within walking distance, or short buggy ride.

Eagle Coffee

I feel safe in our home and able to walk freely without fear. You can walk and bike ride day or night around Swan Lakes lit pathway and enjoy watching the colour changing bridges. During the day, you can have a picnic with friends and watch the swans while the children explore the rustic playgrounds and sensory play area. For the energetic enthusiast, you can hire a bicycle, exercise on outdoor gym equipment, kayak or fish from the various decks dotted around the lake. Ecopark never gets boring as they are continually upgrading the gardens with seasonal flowers, tying in different festive events. I am thankful to live in a peaceful green space far away from the cities hustle and bustle.

Ecopark is my ‘bubble’, and while I live in Vietnam, my ‘bubble’ suits me down to the ground. I need a safe green space for my children to be free running, jumping, kicking a ball or flying a kite, far away from crazy smog-filled streets in the city.

Instagram video on our life in Ecopark https://www.instagram.com/tv/Bzn543XnFjJ/?igshid=1cwp4zi150bvk

#Vietnam – Mid-Autumn Festival Tết Trung Thu

Last week I watched as the country of Vietnam, celebrate the Mid Autumn or Moon Festival. Of course, it was on a much smaller scale due to COVID, but exciting none the less.  This was my 2nd year experiencing the festival, and I wanted to share my understanding of the festivities as I know it.   Please feel free to correct, share or add on any information on the festival that I have failed to mention.

The festival started in China, but Vietnam has added their twist of traditions, legends and folklore tales unique to their culture passed down through the generations.  It was created for children and an important time for the parents to make up for the endless hours dedicated to bringing in the harvest as well as the extended period spent grafting in the fields.  It was also a time to give thanks to the Earth God for a good crop as the full moon symbolises fullness and prosperity of life. They do this by placing the worshipping platform in the garden laid with fruits, snacks and mooncakes at 10 pm, friends and family gather together and enjoy the feast and giving thanks.

During the lead up to the festival, you can expect to encounter the  ‘Moon Cake’  which are eaten and gifted to friends and family during this time.  The cakes are traditionally filled with salted egg yolk and stuffed with bean or lotus seed paste and coved in a decorative dough. The moon cakes have evolved, and new exciting flavours are available in bakeries and shops to sample.  I must say I enjoy the eye-catching pop-up shops leading up to the festival.  They have a variety of beautiful designs, but most of all, the array of brightly coloured boxes in all different sizes available to purchase.    I saw the most exquisite moon cake lantern box on Facebook; if I could find one, I would have bought it as a memento.  It is unique and beautifully made; it even lights up!  Check out the link, isn’t the lantern stunning?

The festival is not only about moon cakes, but it’s actually about the children and giving thanks to the earth god for a good harvest.  As I walked around our local neighbourhood, many kindergartens were displaying their DIY funny face masks, paper lanterns and faces painted bamboo trays.  They held concerts in the evenings, watch dragon dancers and then march down the street with them singing loudly and carrying colourful lanterns of all different shapes, sizes and colours.

A work colleague gifted my children with a funny mask, glowing bunny ears and silly glasses.  My children also enjoyed a fun week making their DIY lanterns, painted bamboo plates and watched a dragon dance from our balcony.

Legend has it that many, many years ago a carp spirit came down and killed many children at night whilst their parents were working in the fields.  It is for that reason the children carry lanterns to protect them from the carp spirit as he terrified of light.

Another fun week #makingmemories

#Vietnam – Ba Vi

#travelingasia #vietnam🇻🇳

If you are looking for a weekend getaway from the city, I think we have just found a hidden gem.  Ba Vi National park is only 60km drive from Hanoi. 

Our family found comfortable accommodation using “Bookings.com” and checked into the self-catering Ba Vi Rose Villas for a short getaway. The rascals we’re extra excited because their fur babies could join as it’s a pet-friendly venue. This perfect little two-bedroom self-catering pad is ideal for the family and includes aircon, fans, free wifi, fridge/freezer, few glasses, bowls, spoons and chopsticks.  There was a small garden with a patio, and we hired a bbq for our stay—the only thing missing was the kitchen sink. I did see a tap in the yard with a concrete slab, guess that’s where I was going to wash the dishes for our stay.

We had to be a bit clever with our packing being it’s self-catering, but as we don’t have a car to cart all the bits and bobs one would need, like food/drink, plates, utensils, fur baby must-haves and clothes and fishing gear, we had to be practical and find a way to fit our stuff into a taxi.  Don’t worry, as South Africa saying “Boer maak a plan”.  I filled my large roller bag with all food /drink, utensils and plates, had a tog bag for clothes, and carry a bag filled with water and fishing gear. I surprised myself at how small I managed to pack, compared to my regular South African getaways where the boot could hardly close.   

Once we settled in and unpacked, everyone was dying for a swim.  The pool was cool and refreshing, offering some fantastic views and “selfie opportunities” if you fancy a selfie.

The only thing left to do was find the perfect fishing spot before the sunset.  I must be honest and admit, we have had zero luck in catching fish in Vietnam.  We have landed some beauties around South Africa but two years here and we have not seen one.  Everyone was determined to hook and land a fish and end our dry spell.  Hallelujah we finally caught one, regardless of how small it was, it was a fish, and the kids were ecstatic. The little fish was released and will live another day. 

All the fishing done, everyone was hungry, especially knowing we would finally be having our very 1st braai “BBQ” in Vietnam. It’s been almost two years since our last South African Braai. I was lucky to find some delicious boerewors and steak. I also made an improvised version of “Woolworths” sweet chilli skewers, garlic bread and carrot salad. Finishing the meal off with toasted marshmallows and ready for bed.

Ba Vi Rose Villas organise a driver to take us round “Ba Vi National Park” he picked us up bright and early and we headed out to the forest.  1st stop The  Cactus Garden, oh my, what a disappointment! I bet it looked beautiful when the dome first opened.   Aiden thought it was very spooky and run-down. Just needed some dinosaurs and it would look like an authentic Jurassic World.  Thankfully the view over the dam made the uphill walk in the scorching sun worthwhile.

The next stop, visiting several French ruins from the 19th century and starting at the French Summer Camp where we saw two derelict structures off the path.  It’s good to explore but doesn’t come close to the Old Church. Wow, a must stop and explore every inch of the church covered in green moss, adding to the drama and offering epic photo opportunities.  Our driver was very kind and drove us up to the Church,  it is a steep road to climb, and we were saving our energy to explore a waterfall.  We didn’t make it to the French Military Zone.

It didn’t feel right going into the national park without a proper forest walk and visiting a waterfall. Of course, everyone moaned, it’s too hot, too many stairs, why do we have to walk? No More, can we turn around!  It wasn’t a long walk, only 4km round trip. The walk was relatively easy, other than the extreme heat and all the ups and downs, but anyone can manage it, no matter your fitness level. Due to an unseasonably dry spell, the waterfall was not as impressive as it could have been. We were relieved to know that there was an open Kiosk selling refreshments at the parking lot. You can grab some refreshments from the kiosk before or after your walk to cool off and take a minute to catch your breath. All in all its a beautiful forest and glad we explored a small portion of it.

Beautiful forest
Slow flowing waterfall
Well maintained footpath to the waterfall

Our family thoroughly enjoyed the time away from the city, spending quality time together, making memories. We are blessed to have the opportunity to explore a small portion of what the world has to offer.

#Vietnam – Ninh Binh Getaway

#travelasia #ninhbinh #hanoi

Our recent adventure took us to the beautiful Ninh Binh.  It’s a picturesque town only 90km from Hanoi City about 1.5 hours drive.   The perfect weekend getaway from all the cities hustle and bustle. 

Our 1st stop was the charming rustic  Trang An Valley Bungalows. Trang An Valley Bungalows is situated close to many attractions including Trang An Eco Complex, Mua Cave, Thai Vi Temple and much more.  The traditionally styled bungalows have a fantastic limestone rock-face backdrop.  The backdrop continues inside as a unique, quirky bathroom wall.  The accommodation was clean and tidy with aircon and free wifi.   We had time to relax by the pool and had a choice of one of their deckings overlooking the pond, where the children fed the duck, and the boys were hoping to catch a fish or two.  The onsite restaurant bar was open all day, offering refreshments and a variety of Vietnamese dishes to sample.  The children loved the fried pork and rice.

After settling in and cooling off in the pool, we ventured out to the Trang An Eco Complex for a 2-hour boat trip. We had a choice of three routes depending on the route length,  amount of caves and temples we wanted to visit.  We finally opted for route two; venturing through four caves, three temples and exploring King Kong Film set, my son’s favourite movie.  He was delighted to see the boat, the handprint and the villagers.   Our petit boat tour guide spoke very little English, even with the language barrier she kept a smile on her face all the way around, regardless of how hot it was, she kept going. Thankfully there were other ores on hand, and we all chipped in and helped paddle through the crystal clear water as we admired the spectacular beauty of the limestone cliffs and dark caves we rowed through.  Trang An Eco Complex was my favourite; however, it was also the busiest and most expensive of the three rivers we explored in and around Ninh Binh.

Next attraction to conquer was Hang Mua meaning the dancing cave.  Don’t miss out on the well-known attraction.  To reach the top, you must tackle over 500 uneven, steep steps, but once you submit, you will be in awe of the beautiful panoramic view of the Tam Coc river and rice paddies. Best visited in April or May when the rice paddies change to golden yellow colour. Remember to explore the 3rd largest cave at the foot of the steps; it’s dating over 300 000 years old.   Our visit was worthwhile but exhausting.

We checked out of Trang An Valley Bungalos and moved over to Emeralda Resort on the outskirts of Ninh Bihn situated less than a kilometer from Van Long Nature Reserve.

We spent the day relaxing and chilling at the pool bar while the children splashed around in the outdoor and indoor swimming pools. 

The large resorts accommodation was clean and spacious with fans, air-con, free wifi, minibar and room service.  After a restfully night in a super comfy bed, we were ready to fill up on a massive buffet breakfast from Continental, Full English to Asian Style, something for everyone, even found something for my picky eater. They have an à la carte lunch and dinner menu at their restaurants, poolside bar for cocktails and snacks and a wine bar. There is plenty of activities to keep you busy at the resort. Pamper yourself to a Spa treatment, try your hand at fishing using traditional bamboo sticks, sink a few putts around the mini-golf course or cycle to Van Long Nature Reserve.  

We had our first snag, trying to find a taxi or transport to our next activity.    Of course, a motorbike would be convenient, but with children, the motorbike is not an option for our family.  Yes, many parents take children of all ages confidently on a motorbike without an issue, I just don’t feel safe doing it, and therefore rely on a taxi, grab or private cars.  The hotel did offer transfers at an astronomical rate, and they were unwilling to call a local taxi.  We had to scramble and source one ourselves.  The language barrier made it tricky, what we could have done if Grab was available in the area.  Anyway,  an hour later, taxi sourced we were finally on the road heading to Tam Cốc-Bích Động.

On arrival, we looked for the ticket kiosk, selected a life jacket and waited for the dock guard to direct us to our boats.  Boys vs girls the race was on!  The Tam Coc boat tour guides rowed us along a tranquil stretch of water, meandering through rice paddies and cliffs.   One unique feature of the guides, is that the guides paddle with their feet.  It is incredible to watch their skill and co-ordination.   Unfortunately, they didn’t offer extra paddles, and we couldn’t help them row.

Photographer rowing with her feet while taking photos.  Each boat has a designated photographer taking pictures; they haggle you to pay for the prints once your tour has ended. 

The weather was hot, muggy and overcast not best conditions to take pictures. On the way back, the clouds were rumbling, and we were expecting a good soaking.  Luckily it held off till we reached land and made the return journey cooler and more bearable.

We saw some birds, loads of Kingfishers, not close enough for a photo but good to see them diving to catch their breakfast.  I was lucky enough to catch sight of a small snake swimming, but as I was about to take a picture, a boat vendor scared it off.

On our final day, we hired tandem bicycles and cycles out to Van Long Wetland Nature Reserve. It’s a short cycle from Emeralda Resort.  Regardless of the short distance, we were sweating by the time we arrived.   I think it was the hottest day of our trip, no clouds in sight.  Yes! Another waterway and boat tour. Can’t get enough of the water systems and all the beautiful limestone peaks covered in green foliage, and crystal clear waters.  The children cooled off by dipping their hats in the water.

Van Long was the quietest and cheapest boat tour route in the area.   Not many tourists know about it.  Hindsight we should have gone in the late afternoon, we were told it’s teeming with birdlife after 4 pm.  Oh well, another reason to return, I guess.  The boat tour was an incredible way to end our getaway.


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#Christmas Cake – Baking Up a Storm

We have reached that time of year again, keeping up with traditions and creature comfort of familiarity even if we are far away from home. Yes, it’s August, but a Christmas cake must be made and nurtured over the months with a good coating of brandy every few weeks.

It wasn’t easy finding the ingredients in Vietnam to create my mums Christmas cake that we are accustomed to, and with border closure, I was unable to source them from travelling friends.

Even with the adjustments, it looks promising, and the house smells of home. We will have a long wait till 25th December to see how it tastes😒

Finished product 16.12.2020
The Christmas cake did not disappoint, the decadent brandied fruit-filled cake moist and tasty with every bite a definite crowd-pleaser and worth the wait.