The resort is deceiving. It offers holidaymakers a beautiful setting and beautiful craftmanship with their restaurant and bungalows structures etc., but unfortunately, that’s where it ends. We had horrible service, terrible food, and 100% unwelcoming to foreigners. I have never hated a vacation as much as I did this one, and I couldn’t wait to leave. One month on, and I am still unable to find something good about it.
The 4th Lockdown in Vietnam seemed never-ending. They started social distancing and restrictions on a few activities from the end of April. Unfortunately, it didn’t stop there. The government placed more restrictions on the people as the numbers increased rapidly. By Mid July, they had no other choice but to restrict everyone’s movement, no travel across municipal or provincial lines unless authorised to do so.
Finally, the government lifted restrictions on the 15th of October and granted free travel between green zones. Relief at the idea we could escape, and I immediately took to google to find a getaway on the outskirts of Hanoi. We had to Escape our bubble. We were becoming stir crazy looking at the same scenery day in day out.
I found a quirky little retreat situated on the banks of Đồng Đò lake, a mere 1-hour drive from the city. The well-appointed container home featured all the self-catering facilities with a bonus of a sandwich shop and bar situated on the roof terrace. Offering us all the amenities we would need to enjoy a peaceful getaway.
The weather was perfect, sunny, NO HUMIDITY with a cool breeze. It felt like the ideal South African weather I love and certainly miss, giving it the extra home-away-away-home feeling. A bit nostalgic, lazing next to the dam, enjoying the peace, tranquillity in a beautiful setting, chilling with the family.
Wherever we go, we always miss our country and people, so whenever we get the opportunity to light a braai, we pounce on it, rain or shine, we will braai! This holiday was no exception. Good meat, Salad and toasty garlic bread hit the spot! It was fantastic to hear the Little Rascals reminiscing and laughing about all our funny moments and adventures we have had, bonding around the fire, memorable moments we will always cherish together.
As much as the scenery and bonding were fabulous, our fishing was not. The giant finned slippery creatures still elude us in Vietnam. I believe the scale suckers know we are not Vietnamese and laugh at our lines, taunting us all the way. Regardless of the fishless fishing, everything was perfect, exactly what we needed.
If you are looking for a quirky, peaceful and relaxing getaway, you will love Gisy Lake House. The hosts are friendly and accommodating and offer a unique eco-friendly experience in a beautiful setting. Look them up when you need some fresh air and tranquillity.
It’s that time of the year again. We were in serious need of another short getaway. The destination of choice was Mai Chau Hideaway, situated on the banks of the Hoa Binh Reservoir.
We had an early start Monday morning waiting for our driver Mr Phong to transport us to Mai Chau, which was only 135km Southwest of Hanoi. As in all road trips in Vietnam, they seem to take much longer due to slower speed limits and not many highways allowing you to travel at high speed. The average travel was 60km/hour or less hence the 3.5 hour-long drive. We snaked along the scenic Thung Khe Pass through villages, rice paddies and sugar cane fields. Mr Phong kindly stopped a few times to look at the spectacular view of the reservoir, which is comparable to a land version of Ha Long Bay.
The Rascals were happy when we finally arrived at Mai Chau Hideaway. What a sight as we left the car, stretched our legs and caught a glimpse of the spectacular view from our balcony—a true hideaway, far away from the busy streets of Hanoi.
Mai Chau is a small town surrounded by by many ethnic villages. Set in a valley between tall mountains, tropical forests and lush green rice paddies. I was hoping to see the beautiful, Plum, and Peach flowers which are suppose to be visible during the months of March, April. I was hoping to find them over the next few days.
The birds singing outside and the gentle chugs from fishing boats as the fishermen tend their traps and set out nets was the perfect wake up call to start our day. But first, a quick stop for breakfast. There was something for everyone and no one went hungry, not the normal buffet spreads we have come to enjoy. The kids tucked into bacon and eggs and hubby enjoyed a hearty chicken Pho whilst taking in the lake view.
I arranged a private guide to take us round the local area and sights. Unfortunately, it didn’t happen due to miscommunication between bookings and reception department. Whatever it was we were not going to let this ruin our holiday. The hotel scrambled and arranged a taxi to shuttle us round and back to the hotel.
First stop Go Lao Waterfall, only a 6km drive from Mai Chau Hideaway – a beautiful hidden gem, not many visitors know about it. The Rascals were relieved to hear they would only had to tackle 40 steep steps to reach the base of the falls. Well, someone couldn’t count. Of course, if I give the kids a number, they have to count it out. By the time they reached 40, they were only at the halfway point. I can now confirm if you want to visit the falls, you will only have to conquer approximately 80 steeps steps down to the base of the falls. The water flows down to Hoa Binh lake and was flowing relatively well considering its not rain season. I would recommend a visit. Pay for parking and head down to the falls. I only wish people would take their litter with them. Then it would be a pristine sight.
Our taxi driver patiently waited for me to take my pictures before heading to our next stop Lac Village and Pom Coong Village. He dropped us off at the entrance and agreed on a time to meet and head back to the hotel. It was a pity we didn’t have an English speaking guide to show the Rascals around, to understand the villages way of life. It would have been insightful to watch the villages weave, make their tools and other handcrafted items, as well as explore the history behind their beautiful wooden houses built on stilts, continuing traditions as they did centuries ago. The villages live upstairs and work below. You can opt to walk, cycle or, better option on a hot day, jump into a golf buggy to ferry you around. You can take in the scenery as you pass all the rice paddies and mountains, watching the farmers hard at work. It’s a tranquil area as you take it all in #simplewayoflife.
After a refreshing drink, the Rascals were ready to head back to the hotel. Their tummies empty, and they couldn’t wait to sit down on the balcony for a light picnic lunch and delicious plums for dessert. The hotel kindly offered a daily plum basket which was a tasty treat.
Tummies filled and rested it was time to dive into the infinity pool to cool off. Late afternoon we headed down to the lake for a spot of fishing. Unfortunately the only thing we caught was flip flops caked in mud. Regardless it was a perfect way to end a day.
Every evening we went out to the Bamboo Restaurant for all our evening meals and breakfast. The view from their terrace is amazing.
Another early morning wake up. We headed down to the lake and boarded a metal tug, which slowly and noisily chugged along the lake. We passed some floating fish farms, loads of lime stone cliffs and islets. Enjoying a magnificent water view.
The rest of the day was as chilled as the morning. We enjoyed another picnic lunch with a view, a long afternoon swim, stone balancing and a spot of fishing on the rocky side of the resort away from the mud.
Mai Chau Hideaway offers every guest a peaceful spot to unwind. It is secluded relatively far from the city and towns, forcing you to slow down and take in the beautiful views, kick back on your balcony, watching the fishermen, boats, and birds pass by.
On the 27th of October, 2019, we were ready for another adventure. This time we were heading to the tourist capital of Vietnam. Yes, you guessed it we jetted off on Bamboo air to explore the city of Da Nang. It’s a 2-hour flight from Noi Bai airport and the halfway point between Ho Chi Minh and Hanoi. We hopped in a taxi to Meliá Da Nang Beach Resort. The friendly staff checked us in quickly and kindly upgraded our hotel room to one of the villas with an outdoor garden and a hop, skip and a jump away from the pool and beach. It started raining, and the porter shuttled us quickly to our villa, where we had time to unpack, order room service before heading to see the famous dragon bridge display.
Photo was copied from Meliá Da Nang Beach Resort, on arrival it was raining.
8.30 pm the taxi was waiting to take us to Da Nang Dragon Bridge, its the longest bridge in Vietnam. Still, more importantly, on weekends at 9 pm, it offers a dazzling display of lights and the intense heat as the dragon breaths out the fire, then cools down with water shooting out of its mouth. For the best view, I would suggest booking one of the boat trips and view the display on the river away from huge crowds that gather.
I have only good reviews of the hotel, and its amenities including buffet breakfast, pool bar, dinner and room service, the staff were always friendly, kind and helpful going beyond to ensure our stay was memorable. The villa was spacious, with a large spa bath and outdoor shower, even the toilet was high-tech with seat warmer and jets from all angles, think you might need a PhD to operate 😉, the kids were highly amused to find a telephone next to the toilet. They were coming up with a different reason why one would require a phone whilst completing one’s private business🤣🤣.
Our first full day at the resort was a lazy day; the weather was perfect. We started with the most important meal of the day, a buffet breakfast with a wide selection of fresh fruits, pastries, cold meats, bacon, sausages and egg prepared on the spot, there was Asian breakfast and sushi on offer a wide selection for any taste bud. After breakfast, the children were desperate to try out all the pools and play on the beach. Unfortunately, the red flag was up due to rip tides. Hence, we settled for a beach walk and morning swim before heading out to the beautiful UNESCO town of Hoi An,
Hoi An has become my new favourite spot. I loved wandering along the bustling narrow roads of the old town, popping into all their quirky shop’s selling silks, clothes, ornaments, dream catches and more. The streets colourfully decorated with endless lanterns strung across the road and dangling from windows and doors. We walked for hours admiring all the sights and smells Hoi An had to offer. The sun had finally worn us out, hot and bothered armed with pork sausage toes we finally sat down for a sunset dinner, then jumped into a taxi back to the hotel. I wish we stayed till dark to see all the lanterns glowing. Hmmm, 🤔 I have just given myself a great excuse to return for another visit.
We woke up to a very dreary wet day, headed to breakfast in the hope the weather would magically change before the shuttle bus dropped us off at Ba Na Hills. I was ready to tick off one of my bucket list items, The Hands I mean The Golden Bridge. Ba Na Hills is a little French village about 450m above sea level and serviced by numerous cableway systems connecting gardens, bridge, town and pagodas together all found at different elevation levels over the mountain.
My missed bucket list photo opportunity, unfortunately, all I have is the google photo to imagine how spectacular the view could have been.
We knew we would be disappointed, but we could only hope the weather would change and had to give it a chance. Hey ho, looking back on the day of drenched rats we can laugh at the day’s events. I’m sure it would have been a magnificent adventure on a clear dry day—another good reason to return for a do-over.
Visibility low
Our reality, zero view!
Another wet day in Da Nang, we had a few hours to kill before our flight home, so we went exploring Marble Mountain. Marble mountain is a group of five hills named after the elements (metal, wood, water, fire and earth). ‘According to ancient folklore, a dragon emerged from the water on Non-Nuoc Beach and laid an egg. A thousand days and a thousand nights followed before the egg hatched, and out stepped a beautiful girl. The fragments of the shell were left on the beach and eventually grew into the five mystical Marble Mountains’. Thankfully we didn’t have to walk up all the steps and chose a one-way elevator ride to the top and explored the mountain as we strolled down. The gardens and carving were magnificent, and I do think it’s worth a visit. By the time we were almost down the rain started to fall, and we hurried to find a taxi to take us to Da Nangs 3D and Upside down museum.
The Museum was a perfect way to kill time and stay dry. The children thoroughly enjoyed the experience.
We had a memorable vacation in Da Nang, and could undoubtedly imagine ourselves living happily in the area. Da Nang is indeed cleaner than Hanoi, and thanks to the sea breeze, the pollution levels are much lower. Another bucket list destination not to miss if you are travelling to Vietnam.
I always wondered how it would feel living in a ‘bubble’. Now, I know!
Phase 2 Ecopark
When we relocated to Vietnam, my husband accepted a job in urbanisation called Ecopark. It’s situated on the outskirts of Hanoi and boasts 500 hectares of land. We were overjoyed to find comfortable and affordable accommodation, only 5 minutes walk to his work. Ecopark is continually growing, with daily developments of villas, semi-detached houses and apartments.
Ecopark has expanded tremendously over the years, and I am at a point whereby I have no reason to leave the urbanisation because I have access to most items I require daily. Of course, we go out, but only to explore somewhere new and exciting.
There are banks, ATMs, hospital, University, vet, schools, themed old town, cinema, pools, clubhouses, gyms, playgrounds, golf facilities, parks and recreational gardens along with a variety of shops, restaurants and much more all within walking distance, or short buggy ride.
Eagle Coffee
I feel safe in our home and able to walk freely without fear. You can walk and bike ride day or night around Swan Lakes lit pathway and enjoy watching the colour changing bridges. During the day, you can have a picnic with friends and watch the swans while the children explore the rustic playgrounds and sensory play area. For the energetic enthusiast, you can hire a bicycle, exercise on outdoor gym equipment, kayak or fish from the various decks dotted around the lake. Ecopark never gets boring as they are continually upgrading the gardens with seasonal flowers, tying in different festive events. I am thankful to live in a peaceful green space far away from the cities hustle and bustle.
Ecopark is my ‘bubble’, and while I live in Vietnam, my ‘bubble’ suits me down to the ground. I need a safe green space for my children to be free running, jumping, kicking a ball or flying a kite, far away from crazy smog-filled streets in the city.
Last week I watched as the country of Vietnam, celebrate the Mid Autumn or Moon Festival. Of course, it was on a much smaller scale due to COVID, but exciting none the less. This was my 2nd year experiencing the festival, and I wanted to share my understanding of the festivities as I know it. Please feel free to correct, share or add on any information on the festival that I have failed to mention.
The festival started in China, but Vietnam has added their twist of traditions, legends and folklore tales unique to their culture passed down through the generations. It was created for children and an important time for the parents to make up for the endless hours dedicated to bringing in the harvest as well as the extended period spent grafting in the fields. It was also a time to give thanks to the Earth God for a good crop as the full moon symbolises fullness and prosperity of life. They do this by placing the worshipping platform in the garden laid with fruits, snacks and mooncakes at 10 pm, friends and family gather together and enjoy the feast and giving thanks.
During the lead up to the festival, you can expect to encounter the ‘Moon Cake’ which are eaten and gifted to friends and family during this time. The cakes are traditionally filled with salted egg yolk and stuffed with bean or lotus seed paste and coved in a decorative dough. The moon cakes have evolved, and new exciting flavours are available in bakeries and shops to sample. I must say I enjoy the eye-catching pop-up shops leading up to the festival. They have a variety of beautiful designs, but most of all, the array of brightly coloured boxes in all different sizes available to purchase. I saw the most exquisite moon cake lantern box on Facebook; if I could find one, I would have bought it as a memento. It is unique and beautifully made; it even lights up! Check out the link, isn’t the lantern stunning?
The festival is not only about moon cakes, but it’s actually about the children and giving thanks to the earth god for a good harvest. As I walked around our local neighbourhood, many kindergartens were displaying their DIY funny face masks, paper lanterns and faces painted bamboo trays. They held concerts in the evenings, watch dragon dancers and then march down the street with them singing loudly and carrying colourful lanterns of all different shapes, sizes and colours.
A work colleague gifted my children with a funny mask, glowing bunny ears and silly glasses. My children also enjoyed a fun week making their DIY lanterns, painted bamboo plates and watched a dragon dance from our balcony.
Legend has it that many, many years ago a carp spirit came down and killed many children at night whilst their parents were working in the fields. It is for that reason the children carry lanterns to protect them from the carp spirit as he terrified of light.
How did we land in Vietnam? A place I would have never considered as my temporary home. To be honest, it wasn’t my first choice for even a holiday destination. How wrong and closed-minded I was!
My husband and I were on a mission. We desperately needed to emigrate and leave South Africa for the second time. We kept kicking ourselves at how stupid we were to have returned to South Africa in the first place after we had successfully managed to make a great life for ourselves in the UK and then Spain for nine years between 2000 and 2009.
My husband had his ten-year Spanish residence card. Next would have been a passport. Why did we give it all up? It started when the recession hit Spain, and it became exceedingly difficult with many companies closing down, a record number of redundancies and friends forced to return to the UK. We had just welcomed our beautiful daughter into the world, and we began to convince ourselves to give our beloved country a second chance. The only country we would unconditionally love like a toxic love affair impossible to end. We tried to pretend all was good and tried to forget all the wrong as we were willing it to become a country where we could feel safe, be close to our family and make a comfortable life for ourselves and our children. With heads in the clouds, we hoped ‘Mzansi could stand together as one and fight all evil’. I mean South Africa is a beautiful country, from scenery to culture and cuisine, not to mention our great climate and the big five, the number of talented sportsmen and women to name but a few. Unfortunately, the brutality is just too ghastly to accept. We had to get it out of our system. We had to accept, we would never have the freedom and security to enjoy its full beauty without fear. We could never be free from the bars we had to hide behind each night.
In September 2018, my husband accepted a position in Vietnam. It was unexpected as we never imagined a job opportunity in Asia, and we were excited to explore a world we had not encountered before. An excellent way to share it with our children. We finally realised we were living a semi-nomadic lifestyle. We were unable to settle down in one particular country or place, we seemed to be moving every 3 to 4 years. Looking for a new opportunity and new challenges. So why not embrace our lifestyle and explore a new part of the world. The experiences our children have world schooling, learning to respect different cultures, their ways of life and belief systems they come across as they interact with people of all ages
Everything steamrolled quickly. We had to give in our notice at work, sell our home contents, cars and source the countless documents required to be authorised, apostle stamped and then translated. My husband needed to be in Vietnam in October, which didn’t give us enough time. We decided that he should leave ahead of us while we remained behind to finish all tasks, and the children could complete their academic school year.
I need to give myself a big pat on my back. I did it all on my own. Ok, it wasn’t my first rodeo. We had relocated from Johannesburg to the UK, then the UK to Spain, Spain to Johannesburg, Johannesburg to Mosselbay, Mosselbay to Cape Town and now Cape Town to Hanoi. The only difference this time was the added pressure to sell the entire contents of our home, assist my daughter with her first year-end exams, organise a joint pool birthday/farewell party, and plan our final road trip from Cape Town to Johannesburg with our worldly belongings piled high in the car.
The day arrived 1 more day till we left our home in Cape Town. My wonderful mom flew in to join us on our road trip. One last night sleep in an empty home, with two beds and a washing machine waiting for collection on departure day. We enjoyed a final walk on Fish Hoek beach and finished our day off with a fabulous dinner in Kalk Bay.
With the sun shining bright we were ready. Last items dropped off at salvation army, car packed to the brim every inch of space taken up by worldly belongings. We waited for the final buyers to collect beds, washing machine and head out of Cape Town on our 1450km road trip.
Just enough space for everyone to sit
Our first stop a hidden gem off the N1 Matjiesfontein! It is only a two and a half hours drive from Cape Town. The perfect pitstop and an excellent excuse to explore the restored little Victorian street. We stopped for a bite and stepped back in time.
Tummies filled and legs stretched we continued onto Beaufort West another 230km drive for a well deserved night sleep. We book the Greys House through AirB&B, the accommodation was spacious, clean and exceedingly comfortable, with indoor pool and garden to keep the children entertained.
After a restful sleep, we were ready for the next leg of the journey, approximately 500km drive to Kimberly, to visit the worlds largest diamond mine and the deepest man-made pit in history. We decided to stay two days as we wanted to explore the town and its history.
We chose to stay at Jungnickel Gastehuis in Kimberly. The guesthouse service and English breakfast were excellent. Thankfully they had a pool and shaded outdoor space for my mom and I to relax and keep an eye on the children as they cool off after a busy morning in the Karoo heat.
Our final leg and feeling very cramped in the car we couldn’t wait to see our family in Johannesburg. I needed a holiday and spend quality time with my mom, dad inlaws before flying to Hanoi.
Final dinner
D-Day, 20th December 2018, we were ready to start our new adventure but oh how I dislike saying goodbye! There were no dry eyes at the airport. Filled with mixed feelings of excitement, sadness and guilt as we left our loved ones behind. We had to look forward and board the Cathay Pacific flight, looking towards the unknown future, but eager to reunite with my husband. It was the longest separation we had ever had to endure, but thankful it was coming to an end.
Tired of waiting in the long queue to check-inJhb to Hong Kong, short layover and connection to Hanoi
As challenging and as stressful as our move was, we managed it! We all settle into our new home and the children have adapted well to their new lifestyle.
If you are lucky enough to be given a chance to move to a new country, don’t look back, don’t live in the past, but be prepared, as every country has its pros and cons, and the 1st move is never easy. The reward for trying will be making a new life, exploring a new country and enjoying the adventure along the way. I can admit our 1st move was the hardest and took about two years to settle down, but with each move after that, it has become notably easier.
If you are looking for a weekend getaway from the city, I think we have just found a hidden gem. Ba Vi National park is only 60km drive from Hanoi.
Our family found comfortable accommodation using “Bookings.com” and checked into the self-catering Ba Vi Rose Villas for a short getaway. The rascals we’re extra excited because their fur babies could join as it’s a pet-friendly venue. This perfect little two-bedroom self-catering pad is ideal for the family and includes aircon, fans, free wifi, fridge/freezer, few glasses, bowls, spoons and chopsticks. There was a small garden with a patio, and we hired a bbq for our stay—the only thing missing was the kitchen sink. I did see a tap in the yard with a concrete slab, guess that’s where I was going to wash the dishes for our stay.
We had to be a bit clever with our packing being it’s self-catering, but as we don’t have a car to cart all the bits and bobs one would need, like food/drink, plates, utensils, fur baby must-haves and clothes and fishing gear, we had to be practical and find a way to fit our stuff into a taxi. Don’t worry, as South Africa saying “Boer maak a plan”. I filled my large roller bag with all food /drink, utensils and plates, had a tog bag for clothes, and carry a bag filled with water and fishing gear. I surprised myself at how small I managed to pack, compared to my regular South African getaways where the boot could hardly close.
Once we settled in and unpacked, everyone was dying for a swim. The pool was cool and refreshing, offering some fantastic views and “selfie opportunities” if you fancy a selfie.
The only thing left to do was find the perfect fishing spot before the sunset. I must be honest and admit, we have had zero luck in catching fish in Vietnam. We have landed some beauties around South Africa but two years here and we have not seen one. Everyone was determined to hook and land a fish and end our dry spell. Hallelujah we finally caught one, regardless of how small it was, it was a fish, and the kids were ecstatic. The little fish was released and will live another day.
All the fishing done, everyone was hungry, especially knowing we would finally be having our very 1st braai “BBQ” in Vietnam. It’s been almost two years since our last South African Braai. I was lucky to find some delicious boerewors and steak. I also made an improvised version of “Woolworths” sweet chilli skewers, garlic bread and carrot salad. Finishing the meal off with toasted marshmallows and ready for bed.
Ba Vi Rose Villas organise a driver to take us round “Ba Vi National Park” he picked us up bright and early and we headed out to the forest. 1st stop The Cactus Garden, oh my, what a disappointment! I bet it looked beautiful when the dome first opened. Aiden thought it was very spooky and run-down. Just needed some dinosaurs and it would look like an authentic Jurassic World. Thankfully the view over the dam made the uphill walk in the scorching sun worthwhile.
The next stop, visiting several French ruins from the 19th century and starting at the French Summer Camp where we saw two derelict structures off the path. It’s good to explore but doesn’t come close to the Old Church. Wow, a must stop and explore every inch of the church covered in green moss, adding to the drama and offering epic photo opportunities. Our driver was very kind and drove us up to the Church, it is a steep road to climb, and we were saving our energy to explore a waterfall. We didn’t make it to the French Military Zone.
It didn’t feel right going into the national park without a proper forest walk and visiting a waterfall. Of course, everyone moaned, it’s too hot, too many stairs, why do we have to walk? No More, can we turn around! It wasn’t a long walk, only 4km round trip. The walk was relatively easy, other than the extreme heat and all the ups and downs, but anyone can manage it, no matter your fitness level. Due to an unseasonably dry spell, the waterfall was not as impressive as it could have been. We were relieved to know that there was an open Kiosk selling refreshments at the parking lot. You can grab some refreshments from the kiosk before or after your walk to cool off and take a minute to catch your breath. All in all its a beautiful forest and glad we explored a small portion of it.
Beautiful forestSlow flowing waterfallWell maintained footpath to the waterfall
Our family thoroughly enjoyed the time away from the city, spending quality time together, making memories. We are blessed to have the opportunity to explore a small portion of what the world has to offer.
Our recent adventure took us to the beautiful Ninh Binh. It’s a picturesque town only 90km from Hanoi City about 1.5 hours drive. The perfect weekend getaway from all the cities hustle and bustle.
Our 1st stop was the charming rustic Trang An Valley Bungalows. Trang An Valley Bungalows is situated close to many attractions including Trang An Eco Complex, Mua Cave, Thai Vi Temple and much more. The traditionally styled bungalows have a fantastic limestone rock-face backdrop. The backdrop continues inside as a unique, quirky bathroom wall. The accommodation was clean and tidy with aircon and free wifi. We had time to relax by the pool and had a choice of one of their deckings overlooking the pond, where the children fed the duck, and the boys were hoping to catch a fish or two. The onsite restaurant bar was open all day, offering refreshments and a variety of Vietnamese dishes to sample. The children loved the fried pork and rice.
After settling in and cooling off in the pool, we ventured out to the Trang An Eco Complex for a 2-hour boat trip. We had a choice of three routes depending on the route length, amount of caves and temples we wanted to visit. We finally opted for route two; venturing through four caves, three temples and exploring King Kong Film set, my son’s favourite movie. He was delighted to see the boat, the handprint and the villagers. Our petit boat tour guide spoke very little English, even with the language barrier she kept a smile on her face all the way around, regardless of how hot it was, she kept going. Thankfully there were other ores on hand, and we all chipped in and helped paddle through the crystal clear water as we admired the spectacular beauty of the limestone cliffs and dark caves we rowed through. Trang An Eco Complex was my favourite; however, it was also the busiest and most expensive of the three rivers we explored in and around Ninh Binh.
Next attraction to conquer was Hang Mua meaning the dancing cave. Don’t miss out on the well-known attraction. To reach the top, you must tackle over 500 uneven, steep steps, but once you submit, you will be in awe of the beautiful panoramic view of the Tam Coc river and rice paddies. Best visited in April or May when the rice paddies change to golden yellow colour. Remember to explore the 3rd largest cave at the foot of the steps; it’s dating over 300 000 years old. Our visit was worthwhile but exhausting.
We checked out of Trang An Valley Bungalos and moved over to Emeralda Resort on the outskirts of Ninh Bihn situated less than a kilometer from Van Long Nature Reserve.
We spent the day relaxing and chilling at the pool bar while the children splashed around in the outdoor and indoor swimming pools.
The large resorts accommodation was clean and spacious with fans, air-con, free wifi, minibar and room service. After a restfully night in a super comfy bed, we were ready to fill up on a massive buffet breakfast from Continental, Full English to Asian Style, something for everyone, even found something for my picky eater. They have an à la carte lunch and dinner menu at their restaurants, poolside bar for cocktails and snacks and a wine bar. There is plenty of activities to keep you busy at the resort. Pamper yourself to a Spa treatment, try your hand at fishing using traditional bamboo sticks, sink a few putts around the mini-golf course or cycle to Van Long Nature Reserve.
We had our first snag, trying to find a taxi or transport to our next activity. Of course, a motorbike would be convenient, but with children, the motorbike is not an option for our family. Yes, many parents take children of all ages confidently on a motorbike without an issue, I just don’t feel safe doing it, and therefore rely on a taxi, grab or private cars. The hotel did offer transfers at an astronomical rate, and they were unwilling to call a local taxi. We had to scramble and source one ourselves. The language barrier made it tricky, what we could have done if Grab was available in the area. Anyway, an hour later, taxi sourced we were finally on the road heading to Tam Cốc-Bích Động.
On arrival, we looked for the ticket kiosk, selected a life jacket and waited for the dock guard to direct us to our boats. Boys vs girls the race was on! The Tam Coc boat tour guides rowed us along a tranquil stretch of water, meandering through rice paddies and cliffs. One unique feature of the guides, is that the guides paddle with their feet. It is incredible to watch their skill and co-ordination. Unfortunately, they didn’t offer extra paddles, and we couldn’t help them row.
Photographer rowing with her feet while taking photos. Each boat has a designated photographer taking pictures; they haggle you to pay for the prints once your tour has ended.
The weather was hot, muggy and overcast not best conditions to take pictures. On the way back, the clouds were rumbling, and we were expecting a good soaking. Luckily it held off till we reached land and made the return journey cooler and more bearable.
We saw some birds, loads of Kingfishers, not close enough for a photo but good to see them diving to catch their breakfast. I was lucky enough to catch sight of a small snake swimming, but as I was about to take a picture, a boat vendor scared it off.
On our final day, we hired tandem bicycles and cycles out to Van Long Wetland Nature Reserve. It’s a short cycle from Emeralda Resort. Regardless of the short distance, we were sweating by the time we arrived. I think it was the hottest day of our trip, no clouds in sight. Yes! Another waterway and boat tour. Can’t get enough of the water systems and all the beautiful limestone peaks covered in green foliage, and crystal clear waters. The children cooled off by dipping their hats in the water.
Van Long was the quietest and cheapest boat tour route in the area. Not many tourists know about it. Hindsight we should have gone in the late afternoon, we were told it’s teeming with birdlife after 4 pm. Oh well, another reason to return, I guess. The boat tour was an incredible way to end our getaway.
We have reached that time of year again, keeping up with traditions and creature comfort of familiarity even if we are far away from home. Yes, it’s August, but a Christmas cake must be made and nurtured over the months with a good coating of brandy every few weeks.
It wasn’t easy finding the ingredients in Vietnam to create my mums Christmas cake that we are accustomed to, and with border closure, I was unable to source them from travelling friends.
Even with the adjustments, it looks promising, and the house smells of home. We will have a long wait till 25th December to see how it tastes😒
Finished product 16.12.2020 The Christmas cake did not disappoint, the decadent brandied fruit-filled cake moist and tasty with every bite a definite crowd-pleaser and worth the wait.